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• #28102
Great, thanks ๐
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• #28103
Now I have to work out if I want to fill over the screws or just replace them with shiny new ones
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• #28104
I'd be wary of removing the screws - they're likely stuck and may disintegrate if they've rusted.
If you primer and paint with a couple of coats, it should last for a long time (if maintained). I'd be inclined to fill the screws or just primer / paint over them.
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• #28105
If the wood looks like it is starting to rot, you can also paint it with hardener (fnar) and do what Soul says from there.
Wait 'til you see my porch up close. If 80% of the timber survives, I'll be lucky. Considering some kind of stock/share based approach to wood hardener acquisition for when I tackle that.
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• #28106
Any recommendations for ladders? About a 4m working height but needs to go into the loft so sections of 2m max (and preferably smaller). Bonus points for anything that can also be used as a stepladder and platform.
Won't be used that often so doesn't need to be trade-standard but I'd prefer something not too wobbly. I've got a telescopic ladder at the moment and it always seems on the brink of breaking.
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• #28107
Nice work and thanks. Yeah most are hairline, a couple are 1-2mm. I was thinking about a grout removing tool or something for the larger cracks.
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• #28108
Roof slate works.
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• #28109
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• #28110
Really Useful Storage are my choice. I probably have 50 of them. They stand a lot of use.
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• #28111
Stanley blades (or their equivalent) are so cheap that if you have a stout knife/blade holder they work best, I find. Won't be much use for anything else once you're done, but see my previous "cheap" sentiment.
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• #28112
There are foldable versions and some with more features but basically one of these is what I have used for a long time.
If you've only got a bit to do maybe just hammer a nail through a bit of wood. Ideally you want to rake the crack out to a v shape.
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• #28113
Also, as I've said elsewhere (I think) a random orbit sander hooked up to a henry is great for sanding back the overfill. I've not used a filler yet that doesn't shrink back. So it's a balance of overfilling to compensate for shirnkage versus waiting for that overfill to dry (thicker = longer) versus having to sand back fully hardened overfill. The RO sander eliminates the ballache of the latter and with 180 grit pads I've not noticed any swirl marks like you get sanding wood.
Sometimes a light fill, wait for drying, sand, re-fill the shrinkage, dry and sand again is quicker than overfilling and having to wait for the thick layer of filler to fully cure.
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• #28114
I used to be a bit of a sander addict. I have a lot of them now. One day someone older and wiser than me suggested using a sponge and I've not looked back! There are times when a sander is the answer but a lot of the time it creates more problems with the surface of the wall surrounding the filler.
If I'm doing a nice job I line the walls afterwards anyway. That way you don't have cracks appearing over time and ruining the look of the walls. This is really useful if you live in the same house for a long time and especially useful if your neighbours decide to dig a basement.
I have found these cracks open up over time, just because they are not growing doesn't meant they won't crack your new filler inside a year. Flexible fillers are tricky to work with because of the difference in texture.
Paint your new filler with Gardz regardless of whether you are painting or lining. It makes all the difference to the surface finish.
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• #28115
Just ordered 2.5L of Osmo Polyx raw so can hopefully finish and fit birch ply kitchen doors soon. Worktop likely to go on next week.
Can anyone recommend where to order draw runners/ draw systems? Three of the existing soft close ones are completely knackered.
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• #28116
The Samla ones are good but the lids don't lock on properly without extra little additional clips which you'll inevitably lose.
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• #28117
I've found the Hafele ones good. Plenty of options here
https://www.sdslondon.co.uk/drawer-runners.html -
• #28118
Need some advice on my utility room build.
Space is 2m deep x 130cm wide , but narrows, so the 70cm from the back wall point is 127cm.
I plan on installing 2x60cm wide Ikea kitchen wall cabinets and build large single cupboard on the floor to house a washing machine and tumble dryer.
I have neither the experience or tools to be scribing anything but I want to fill the small gaps between the wall cabinets and the walls.Plan so far...
Hang cupboards.
Cut MDF filler to put either side.
Build a framed floating shelf above the washing machine etc.
Attach batons to the walls to hang doors from.This, as far as I can tell, will result in something that looks entirely built in, but with less effort and achievable by myself.
Anything I've missed? Any tips?
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• #28119
Ive got a dremel and a knock off and honestly I just use what ever comes to hand first.
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• #28120
are you following the instructions fully?
Yes. I think so. I recalibrate it quite often. Remove watch and wedding ring. Make sure I'm wearing the correct shoes.
Anything I'm missing?*
Quite a few reviews online have the same problem.
*just remembered I was forgetting about putting my hand on the wall to ground it!
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• #28121
thanks @Airhead @stevo_com
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• #28122
Mine is a bit of a game as well, it needs to be away from the wall etc. etc. but I sometimes get good results if I switch it on and let it calibrate while it's on the wall. Mine's also got means to make it stand off the wall a set amount.
Both of mine gather dust anyway, last time we discussed them in this thread the only person who had used a decent one said it worked well but cost a lot of money.
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• #28123
IKEA monobloc tap tails. What the fuck size is the thread at the top where it meets the tap? I need shorter ones but there isn't anything matching at Screwfix.
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• #28124
I believe itโs 10mm into the tap itself
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• #28125
Comparing it to an M10 threaded tail (silver one) it looks like it might be 8mm. But I'm not sure I'm measuring correctly. Ordered an M8 pair and will see if that works.
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You can definitely paint it.
I would give it a good clean, remove any areas of rot if there are any, paint with an outdoor primer (sandtex is supposed to be good), then paint the topcoat; something waterproof obvs.