Home DIY

Discovered last night that I have a double socket in the kitchen which is (almost certainly) on a radial circuit on it's own. The circuit used to power the oven which no longer exists, new oven is on a new circuit of its own.

The socket has a 32A breaker and 4mm cabling.

Can anyone comment on feasibility of extending the radial circuit beneath kitchen units to create another double socket on the adjacent wall and one below the units for dishwasher ? Has anyone done similar ?

Sounds fine. 4mm cable is correct for a 32A radial, and is likely to become the norm as they try and phase out ring circuits in favour of radials.

My main thing would be to have the socket for the dishwasher at a decent height/distance away so it doesn’t cause problems if there’s a leak. I can’t remember if there’s any specific regs about that.

Use a stiff sharp scraper to remove the beads from the frame.
Starting midway along the bead on the line arrowed in the picture

Cheers for the advice. I tried last night with a painters tool but got nowhere - The tool was too thick and that beading was on tight!

There is a knack to it but it helps if you spray a bit of window cleaner or soapy water on the rubber seals. The pressure of the compressed rubber keeps those plastic pieces locked in a channel, you need to push the plastic piece towards the panel and lever them up slightly. Once you've cracked the first bit it's very easy

Anything with a double beveled edge is likely to damage the bead or frame, as it's the leverage of the single bevel sharp edge being of to one side that's needed.

Properly sharpened like a chisel, a painters tool should work, but they are a bit too wide for some of the really tight beads. It may come in handy as a second knife if the bead keeps snapping back into place.

Have the flat face of the knife towards the panel and press/gently hammer it into the non existent gap.
It may only go in a mm or so and probably not free the bead at that point. Then use the heel of the bevelled edge to lever the bead hook free. Use a second tool to work outwards if needed.

Some of the flat angled beads are bastards.

Thanks. Ok sounds relatively straight forward then. I think I can use the sockets themselves as the junctions.

Is it worth getting an electrician in to discuss and get them to connect it once the work is done, or not necessary?

I would have to run the cable either behind or underneath the range, there's loads of clearance but does that present any problems ?

The current dishwasher socket is lose on the floor so can only be improved!

If you are extending the circuit you need to make sure the breaker is the right rating for the cable you are adding. In this case it might be easier to change the breaker for a 16 and use 2.5 t&e to extend the circuit. Otherwise you will have to stick to 4mm. There are other considerations with cable rating that an electrician on site would quickly establish but 32a is fine for a 4mm cable clipped to a surface.

There are some considerations about cable routing if it's going in a wall. If your breaker is protected by an rcd there's less to worry about but you can't have any diagonal cable runs.

Had this week off work so decided to turn a spare bedroom into my new office. Also moved my zwift setup and music into it too.

Need to paint the trunking to match the wall, put a bike frame on the wall and add a vinyl display shelf that I’ve made then it’s done.

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Nice. Did you make the tubular guitar?

Nah. It’s an Aria Sinsonado. Bought it years ago because it’s got a built in amp so headphones plug directly in. Flat friendly.

Question regarding the paint line between the sloped ceiling and the wall. I have a similar non straight edge situation as you, looks like you masked a straight edge, you happy with the end result? I can't think of better way and am inclined to copy.

Yeah, it looked awful in the original colour.

Used a laser level to mask both sides so they’re level with each other.

Actually isn’t really noticeable when you’re in the room and definitely better than the shit job the builders did.

Ta. I probably only noticed because it's the hot topic on my mind atm.

Also as per usual, I like the colour.. What is it?

Craig & Rose - steel pole

The more I see @Soul's desk, the more I'm reminded that this is still ongoing

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I was only thinking about this the other day. Didn’t want to ask in case it was a sore subject.

Looking good!

You deserve each other.

Got a set of these coming for indoor use, not shed/similar:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-Tier-Shelf-­Shelving-Unit-Heavy-Duty-Racking-Boltles­s-Industrial-Shelves-Garage/254841416625­?hash=item3b55bb6bb1:g:BPgAAOSwwnFgCrEm

I need to secure these to the wall. My OH proposed those kids safe fixings. I'd assumed screw and raw plug with some sort of spacer to accommodate the skirting board.

My question is this; are these style of shelves stable if not bolted to a wall?

As in bolted to the wall off the floor or just bolt so they cant be toppled over

In normal use, yes. If the kids start using it as a climbing frame to get to what's on the top shelf, no.

just bolt so they cant be toppled over

It's going in a kids room and knowing no1 will be climbed.

These are what my OH was thinking of

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08N6KVRCM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_6KMHMKWT21BVSQKDRJC8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

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Thanks all.

There's a bit of a catch 22 in that I need it all planned so it's built and fixed in one go, rather than being able to leave it unattended until a fixing arrives.

Hafren No Go tamper proof fixings

Spoke to the Lab Manager at Sold Secure;
Nothing similar on the (UK) market!

I got half a dozen of these from IKEA from their free spares service