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Tijs
mind_maze
OK, let's talk fenders.
I went for Velo Orange 26" 60mm full fenders, which are rated for tyres "up to 52mm wide". As explained earlier, I had to take my chances with 53mm Gravel Kings.
The rear fender went on pretty easy. The Rock Hopper frame has mounting points near the bottom bracket (use a concave washer to distribute pressure) and drop-outs. I had to use a p-clip for the rear brake bridge, which isn't very elegant but I can live with it.
An important consideration is the v-brakes you choose! My Shimano ones have 107mm length arms, which puts the brake cable very close to the fender! According to this chart Tektro make longer ones (but good luck getting them shipped to little England).
The important measurement
The front was a lot more complicated.
My first attempt was using the "daruma" supplied with the fenders. This does not work well with a suspension corrected fork, since the fender will sit high above the tyre. Not only does this look bad, it also doesn't leave clearance for the brakes or a front rack.
Daruma
My next attempt was using the clever "Fender Flute" from Problem Solvers. This is, in effect, a much longer daruma.
These work great, but I wouldn't recommend one if you are using a front rack. The fender sits very close to the front rack and the two rattle together over bumps. My fender flute is now spare, so hit me up if you want it!
Attempt three was to attached the fender directly to the rack. The advantage of this approach is that the two won't rattle together; the downside is that you will need to drill a new hole in the fender. I'd suggest putting everything (rack, fender, wheel, etc) in position to figure out the best place to drill.
Once you have the hole drilled, use a long bolt to attach the fender to the rack. Experiment with different numbers of washer to get the correct height. You want even spacing between the tyre and fender the whole way around. The fender must be high enough to clear the tyre but low enough to clear the brake cable.
About 6 washers
Again, this comes very close to the brake cable. It's not quite touching, so I think it's fine. Make sure you get a "noodle" at the correct angle, this can gain you a few mms of clearance.
The final step was attaching the basket to the rack. This is a Wald 1372 (best price around is Wizard Works); you can remove the handlebar supports with some pliers. Attachment was easy with some zip ties. I found some brown ones on eBay, because black is boring.