PhilDAS never content with the bikes I already own

true, worry about adjustment later - 3D print custom saddle rail cradle etc...

Drill a hole through the tube and seatpost and shove a bolt through it. When you want to make it adjustable then extend the hole in the seatpost so it's a rectangle with rounded ends and get some 3d printed pieces of the same shape with the bolt hole at different heights.

right last attempt at this then I'll leave you alone - glue a new collar onto the exposed part of the seatpost to stop it slipping down...

last last effort - cut a section of shaped seatpost off, place a normal 27.2 (or whatever fits) post into it and fill the rest of the gap of the teardrop with crabon/epoxy and put a normal clamp on the normal seatpost...

The more I think about it, the more this option potentially sounds like the best

Enough to cut the bottom off and expoxy it as far down the inside of the seat tube as you can to make a shelf/shoulder for the rest of the post to sit on? cut some additional shims to give you adjustment of a few min increments up from where you want it (to use inside the seat tube before the clamp)? The bottom of the shortened seatpost can then sit against the glued in section of post and secure with the clamp? Add a 2mm shim to make it higher if required etc?

The seatpost is undersized compared to the seat tube already. With the clamp done up I can rock the saddle side to side about a pivot point at the clamp in the frame so even to glue the seatpost fully in place, I'd have to thicken it out at the bottom of the post and glue it in place.
So this is the exact same process only I wouldn't have to also glue and wrap the post at the top and I could cut down the post in the future to lower it or buy a replacement post and start again if I need to raise it.

Wrap additional carbon around the seat post to make a lip that sits on top of the seat tube. The seat post can’t slip down into the frame but can be removed/replaced. If the saddle height needs to be adjusted, add more carbon to raise the post, to lower file the carbon away to make the lip on the post higher

Wrap the frame and post in poo, douse in petrol, then put the fucking horrible thing out of its misery through glorious cleansing flame.

Nah mate, best thing to do is sell it to me.

I wondered how long until you came along again 😂

I’m in the process of making an aluminium clamp to go on the post as a stop but it’s proving quite time consuming with a bench drill, hacksaw and files.
A semi permanent carbon one may be easier at this point

I have seen something like this done at the Ghent six

Yeh I’ve seen this done a few times on track bikes and even I think Paris roubaix type bikes or cx. Is the simplest way or will the bolt slowly eat the post?

Why dont you just make some kind of physical bump stops that protrude from either side of the searpost a few mm so it physically cants lip any lower into the frame, then just use the clamp as normal.

Drill a small hole either side of the post, bond in two small pieces of steel rod, done. The seatpost cross section looks chunky AF, so you might not even have to drill all the way through the post. If you want to adjust the height just sand them flush, paint pen over, and re-do at different height.

Could you make a carbon quill type seatpost?

Why dont you just make some kind of physical bump stops that protrude from either side of the searpost a few mm so it physically cants lip any lower into the frame, then just use the clamp as normal.

Yeah I think I'm going to go this route but probably just with wraps of additional carbon on the outside of the post rather than any drilling
After spending an hour cutting and drilling a chunk of aluminium last night to make a clamp, I want to make life easier for myself.

I don’t know how you drill holes, but in my experience drilling 2 2mm holes is at least 500 times faster than dicking around with resin and carbon matting. Would also be a lot easier to make sure it’s at the correct height.

No that's true. I have a bench drill and a pack of new bits. It's not the speed of drilling, just that I'd rather add strength than take some away or introduce points of failure underneath my precious bottom.

Not sure - seems likley. If one is happy for it to be a permanent arrangement (height) then could glue and screw?

Lovely job!

my precious bottom.

It’s not that precious.

Is adding stops for the post to stop it slipping into the frame not just creating a new stress point at the frame/stop section?

Surely someone on here can 3D print an ISP topper for it! Then you just glue the post in place and not have to worry about it.

Guess I'll bung it here

New Chinese Ti build incoming. It's only just been finished so I haven't taken delivery yet. I guess it will be at least a week or so. I will then want it painted. I'm not at the point in my life of succumbing to raw Ti bikes.

The brief was a fairly racey "fast/aggressive" road frame but with space for mudguards.
I thought about copying the geometry from something I know works, either my CAAD12 or some other current race bike, an SL7 or something but in the end I just made it from scratch for my needs. I've kept the stack and reach more or less the same as I'm used to on previous bikes Inc the caad but it's a touch steeper at the front and a bit steeper at the back as I like to sit quite far forward on most road frames.
I'm mostly torso and not legs so I've dropped the top tube and gone fairly compact which should get back some lightness from the non butted tubing and provide a bit more seatpost flex for comfort.
I'm hoping to squeeze 28s and mudguards in a 367mm a-c fork so that without the guards on, it still looks like a road bike rather than a gravel bike with too skinny tyres and huge gaps.
This is the model I started with

1 Attachment

@BareNecessities

1 Attachment

• LV700-075525M-模型 (1).pdf

It took weeks of going back on forth on every tiny detail, the placement of the mudguard mounts, the height of the stay bridges, where the cable routing needed to go, the height on the seat tube that the TT and seat stays would meet, how long to cut the slot in the seat tube. I'm pretty happy with the final design so we'll have to wait and see if it has turned out as planned. The time difference is the main factor here. You get one email and one reply per 24 hours as their working day is in the middle of the night here

3 Attachments

I will then want it painted. I'm not at the point in my life of succumbing to raw Ti bikes

Caren Hartley would approve

I'm so used to only looking at BikeCAD that the PDF seems like a lot of information to take in

Kind of nice that you can control every little detail though

Hello is this made in a kitchen?