Home DIY

Yay nearly finished!

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Oh

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Re the above, what filler is going to be suitable for patching up all the nail and woodworm holes? Treads are going to get painted, I just don't want it to breakout with all the inevitable flexing from traffic on the stairs.

Putting a cat flap through external wall. This was a bigger job than I expected.

Gentle bump for my rambling "should I try and build my own stud ceiling or is this best left to the pros?".

Will start stripping original lime plaster walls back shortly as most is loose. Potentially pull the freshly skimmed wall off too as it's a real shitty job. Didn't think that through when having the chimney removed.

It's super easy. The only thing you need to be mindful of is getting it level. If you get a laser that can be suspended the you'll be bale to get all the 4 walls that you baton first, level. Then jsut run your beams and noggins.

Kitchen counter question -currently installing the cheapest ikea countertops (will be replaced with something better when funds allow). The total run is 4m-ish, so i need to join two together - should this be over a join between two units for more support, or does it not matter?

I'm reluctant to offer too much of a recommendation because I don't do a lot of this work but I've had some good results with Manns varnishes and stains. The clear satin varnish dries fully hard after 5 days and is a pleasant finish. I just don't have a lot to compare it to but I like it.

The best way to join them involves a 1/2 inch router and a template. If you have that kit then you can join them and maybe reinforce the join with tenons it's fine to join anywhere. I would recommend choosing a worktop that comes in the longer length. If you really only need it to last five years, join it with a jigsaw.

In terms of filling a surface as abraded as a staircase I might try the repaircare fine surface filler. It's a 2 part but it's designed to comply with a moving surface and not delaminate when it's thinly applied.

Otherwise Toupret ready mixed wood filler or some kind of gorilla glue and wood dust.

I'm just about to fill nailheads in some floorboards and I'm thinking toupret wood filler.

This reminds me, we have just had our cheap laminate worktops replaced with solid surface Staron ones, the seamless joins are amazing, almost impossible to find them.

does any one know any good books/guides/articles on the practicalities of DIY converting an internal garage?

no new windows or doors, need to block up the garage door from the inside, insulate foor ceiling and walls, and make sure i dont fuck up the gas/elec meter.

I want to read up on things like the building regs process and want it to be legit.

considering investing in some tools for other projects but its mostly only worthwhile doing so if i am sure i can actually do the conversion myself.

will be getting specialists to do any of the electrics and plumbing bits.

repaircare fine surface filler

The 'Dry Flex SF' one? Nice but pricey, may give it a go though. I was looking at 2 part filters and there were some reviews mentioning delamination with the Ronseal one. Probably will get away with Toupret powder I have on the skirting.

Staron

If you don't mind me asking, how much did it cost?

Replaced the totally fuckoed bathroom mixer tap (lever had broken off so could only be operated by pushing the nubbin back). That was fine, except when it all went on, I noticed a small o-ring in the box. Off it all came as I thought maybe one of the rings on the inlet hoses had come off. Nope, it was just a spare. All back on, even got hot and cold the right way round after forgetting to note which was which when the old tap was on . Time to replace the waste. Old waste had lost its plug/pop-up cover and I'd already dropped one toothbrush head down the plug. Waste came apart in approximately 7 pieces and 3 tons of silicone. New waste in and the threaded portion was too short to connect to the trap. Back to Toolstation for a coupling, too long. During trying to fit up hear a distinct "adhesive failing" crack coming from the drain pipe as I was trying to convince everything to fit. Turn of valves in the tap supplies, call plumber, they're coming to finish it off tomorrow.

I hate water.

We think not too expensive for what it is.

We had;

A 2.4m x 900mm island top
A W,4m x 300mm shelf
A 2.4m straight run
A 3m run with an L turn which has an integrated sink in it.
A small window sill covered
4 x chopping boards

All came to just over £4K fitted.

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The whole repaircare system is expensive. County Chemicals have launched their own 2 part epoxy system but I've not tried it yet. Repaircare is great at what it does though, just expensive.

Thanks! Ikea only do a 3.5m length annoyingly. I've improvised with a 35mm bit for cutting cupboard door hinges to create the whole to seat the zip bolt thingies in. It doesn't look great but it's only (long-term) temporary i guess.

Way back when I used to join worktops like that I would use a colour matched sealant in the joint, even if it was a tiny joint, just to stop water getting in and swelling the particle board.

Looks really neat! Do you happen to have a link for the tiny little shelf and the knife board? Are they Ikea as well?

Yeah i've just decided to redo it as i've got an extra worktop (bought in case i faffed it up) and it looks a bit too agricultural. I used the colour match stuff on the orignal join i'd made but as i was butting two edges which had laminate taping on it didn't seem to work so well. from the internet it seems like most joins are between two cut bits of worktop?

Tiny little shelf is an IKEA bamboo picture shelf cut down to fit.

The knife holder was from Amazon

Thanks a lot!

No probs, I have a fixation with not having things on the worktops. Now if only I could find a good solution for the kettle, toaster and coffee machine..,

yeah exactly my thinking. Add to that a massive rice cooker, baby bottle steriliser and my wife's sacred house plants and you get a picture of what I a dealing with...