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• #16877
If builder forgot the shim then is a shim and 27.2 an option?
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• #16878
But what if it creaks? I'd prefer to return my current and brand new seatpost while it's returnable.
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• #16879
I wouldn’t usually say “shim it” but was thrown by the bit about your builder not including a shim, figured that might be a consideration if 31.6 gives limited options
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• #16880
I’ve had a shim on a bike for years and it’s been totally fine and never creaked. I believe it’s a USE one.
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• #16881
Finally took my new gravel bike for a spin after getting the wheels built up and waiting for all the snow and ice to melt. Feels dreamy.
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• #16882
I had a shim on a use seatpost as well . Never a problem .
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• #16883
Lovely clean looking bike. Who built it?
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• #16884
Yeah who dunnit?
Nice bike like colour
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• #16885
ive made my own shim. been fine.
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• #16886
Agree; coke can shims are perfectly fine. Had one for years on my MTB
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• #16887
Does anyone know how far you can comfortably push r7000 derailleur without a roadlink? Recommended max is 34t...
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• #16888
Assuming GS, I did 40, but while you find it will work it works much better with the link.
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• #16889
Search this thread but almost certainly a 36T and probably a 40T.
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• #16890
Very nice bike very nice picture
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• #16891
November to January for me, starting to get sick of it by now.
You need to know your routes though, some trails/footpaths are not worth it until springtime
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• #16892
Done 40 easily.
We should start including some FAQs in the first thread similarly to the tubeless thread
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• #16893
Yeah, I swear I've said "Shimano specs are conservative" about 10 times this year already :P
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• #16894
Cheapo fuji is ugly but fun
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• #16895
Had a seat post shim in a fully, and did not creak at all hence the "abuse".
Turned out that the aluminum frame and the steel shim bonded really nice. Not sure about Titanium chemistry tho. -
• #16896
That's what I'm most afraid of TBH :) I don't want anything bonding to anything and Ti loves that stuff. Looks like there are some options, so I'm sort of chill now.
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• #16897
Thanks for the all the answers, I knew it had been covered before but gets lost amongst the more pressing, more existential question of what is gravel
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• #16898
Think it depends if you have a pressure washer or not. But in the end riding through thick gloopy mud isn't worth it to me. It's not interesting, it's slow and it fucks your drive train in the end, you can jam massive knobbly tyres on to cope with it, ride even slower, go an even shorter distance, hampered even further by the lack of available light, then get home and clean the bike in the dark. But I would prefer not to.
Normally I do one or two thick gloopy rides in december/january and then decide I don't want to do them anymore. Would rather fit mudguards and ride an NCN.
Might get a pressure washer next year though.
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• #16899
Well 3 months isn’t bad, mines usually 1 ride
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• #16900
Think it depends if you have a pressure washer or not.
Stay the fuck away from pressure washer if you want to minimise the amount of parts that needs replacing on your bike.
End of a "new project", my Ti2 allroadgravel frame is here... but apparently (as the framebuilder told me 27.2 but forgot, and meant to include a shim but forgot that as well...) need to get a 31.6 and <400mm seatpost. So looking for a seatpost recommendation fitting these criteria and in stock somewhere in the UK:
31.6mm x 350mm or shorter (300 might be OK)
Carbon, Inline (0 layback)
Di2 compatible
I can try getting a Pro Tharsis XC and shortening it but I'm not sure what would happen to the di2 battery compatibility after cutting it. Would the snap-on ring still hold? Is the inside of the tube hollow enough so after cutting it there would still be space for a battery + washers+ring? And so on... (and I don't really want to go over £200)