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• #27402
My favourite for spindles etc are the soft pads in a fairly aggressive grit. Maybe the scraper set I linked a few pages ago might help too. There's no getting around it being a slow job though.
The ir stripping relies on the ir heating the wood under the paint so there's a good chance it would lift an oil based varnish, not so sure about water based. I don't think it would lift the stain but once the varnish is gone the stain should be easier to remove.
My next DIY project is to clean up a piece of oak that's worn and stained inside the patio doors where it gets stepped on during the winter. I will try ir on it just to see what happens.
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• #27403
Good place to start would be setting the thermostat to something unrealistic, i.e. 30 degrees, setting the boiler to 'always on' if it has a timer, then see if the place becomes uncomfortably hot.
I see that you spent time at my mother-in-law's
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• #27404
Yeah I have the scrapers, but going across the grain was brutalising it pretty badly.
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• #27405
What's the name of that dreamy youtube dad who has a basic way to make built in mdf cupboards?
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• #27406
Some of the doors I am currently stripping are varnished under paint and it comes straight off. Best method I've found is to heat the whole door and the paint goes brittle and it scrapes straight off when it's cooled again
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• #27407
Charlie diyte
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• #27408
👍
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• #27409
I'm planning a fitted open bookcase cupboard thing to go behind a door in a bedroom.
Has anyone seen/done anything similar? My first stumbling block is whether to make it in "blocks" or have long tall side pieces.
I guess the easiest is
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• #27410
Long side, screw together and slide in fix. That’s how’d I would do it if I was making one personally
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• #27411
Here are two that I did. The blue one is made with one tall box (minus the top - it has a fixed middle shelf instead) up to the door top, and one wide box across the top.
The white one is a single box, with fixed top and bottom shelves some way from the actual top and bottom edges (because stairs and sloping ceiling), and a fixed middle shelf.
It's much easier to make a box in your workshop and fit it than to build every shelf in situ.
The other advantage of building it as a box is that you can drill for adjustable shelves, using a Kreg 32mm shelf pin jig. Make sure you buy the 5mm (european std) one, not the 1/4inch, or none of your nice shelf pins will fit.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kreg-Tool-Company-KMA3220-Shelf/dp/B008D55P2W/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3EC1P3IYNUX5U&dchild=1&keywords=kreg+shelf+pin+jig&qid=1613581512&sprefix=kreg+shelf+p%2Caps%2C319&sr=8-2
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• #27412
Here’s one I built for a friend. The shelves are fixed per his request and attached to the long side boards with dowels. I’m not sure I would recommend going down this route. Removable shelves are probably easier and better.
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• #27413
I used a belt sander to remove varnish from an old office desk. I found out fairly quickly that it was veneered. I didn’t realise Festool made a belt sander. Very niiice.
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• #27414
Festool make everything shame it’s all so expensive 😂
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• #27415
UTFS hasn't worked, I know I saw someone recommending a free sketch-up/architectural drawings type program, but I can't find it and this thread moves so fast - does anyone remember/link me up? Much appreciated! Cheers
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• #27417
Looks perfect, thank you!
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• #27418
Bikes content ? DIY content ? Behold the great dewalt to Henry inner tube connection of 2021.
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• #27419
Nice.
I've made lots of adapters, my go to method is to get a bit of 2x2, cut a short length off to make a cube (2x2x2 if you will), and drill holes on either side - one for the tool, one for the vac.
They tend to look a bit odd but easy to get a tight fit if you've got a set of spade bits.
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• #27420
the great dewalt to Henry inner tube connection of 2021
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• #27421
I used a belt sander to remove varnish from an old office desk. I found out fairly quickly that it was veneered.
Oh shit moments thread ----->
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• #27422
Cheers all.
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• #27423
Any tips on removing a window board / cill without devastating the plaster around it? My current thinking is to get oscillating tool bits like this and just go around all the edges to try and loosen it from the plaster, but if anyone has a better idea I'm all ears. The edges of the cill are notched around the sides of window reveals, and I know at least one layer of plaster has been slapped on with it in place so it's pretty buried in there.
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• #27424
Multi tool is one of the best tools I’ve bought in years.
It can certainly do slightly delicate things like your after. -
• #27425
Maybe this would help, I find it useful when nothing else works. You can use it in long (thin) strips.
Thanks for that. I will follow the instructions and see what happens.