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• #5552
Cheers. I think I'm going to have to put them in the ground, I just don't trust the stability of the wall to carry any side load.
Anyone used one of these before? Considering getting on to finish off excavating my back garden, it's been back breaking so far and figure this could come in handy on the allotment too.
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• #5553
I have moved into a new house and there’s a greenhouse in the back garden. Are these easy to dismantle and is there much interest in the gardening world for these or should I just smash it up? I want to get rid of it.
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• #5554
Hi - where are you based? I would love it!
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• #5555
Freecycle it with the condition that the collector dismantles, if someone can get to it in a non-contact kind of way.
p.s. do you live in a castle?
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• #5556
Also complete with moat?
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• #5557
They're a sod to take apart (very bitter experience), but the hassle outweighs the cost of a new one. LABEL EVERY PART and write the position on every pane with a sharpie. You will crack a few, but any decent glazier will cut greenhouse glass to size.
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• #5558
p.s. do you live in a castle?
That looks like the neighbouring castle. fredtc is probably a mere serf.
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• #5559
Freecycle
I'd say list it on ebay with 99p listing. My BiL wanted to get rid of his shed and was going to pay someone £250 to do it. Then looked on ebay and realised he could sell it. In the end someone paid him £50 to dismantle and remove it. Win, win.
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• #5560
Anyone grown dwarf cherries? (Cherry Sylvia, Prunus avium Sylvia)
Just discovered they were a thing. idk where I'd put a pair, but it's a nice idea. -
• #5561
Is there a reason why some avocado seeds germinate and other not.
I’ve tried to grow about 30 seeds recently and only 2 have germinated
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• #5562
I’m still looking for a tree surgeon servicing in SE11 (Kennington) if anyone’s got a recommendation, cheers!
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• #5563
As per above I have two greenhouses in my garden plus a third in bits. All of them I dismantled and collected then rebuilt in my garden.
Which leads me on to my question. The small 6' x 4' greenhouse on the left is to be replaced by the larger 6' x 6' gh on the right.
However the existing concrete base is too small and needs extending to the line of the bricks I have laid out.
What is a suitable way to do this? Should I shutter and fill completely with concrete or could I get away with filling some of the area with broken paving slabs (see behind the greenhouses, I have plenty and skim a couple of inches of concrete over the top?
Should I drill holes in the existing step on the base and put large screws in there to help it stay together or should I do something else?
I was planning on leaving the existing paving slabs beneath the bricks in place and laying the concrete on top. These are proper old school 2 x 2 slabs which are a couple of inches thick and have been there in the same place for 25 years plus.
Answers on a postcard please
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• #5564
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• #5565
Also interested as I want to do a similar thing with a shed base this summer. Will follow with interest.
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• #5566
Has anyone had any success moving established trees? No budget for a tree spade but do have a big enough digger. It's an oak tree, about 15ft tall.
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• #5567
Personally I wouldn’t attempt it. In all the years I did trees it was hard enough getting newly planted trees established. The few companies that do transplant trees successfully are like wizards to me...
If you’ve got the digger handy and are prepared to lose the tree then give it a while. I believe there’s a process of digging the rootball out over a period of time to reduce the shock that may be worth looking into.
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• #5568
Cheers for the tip - went with them for a coppicing, they were v polite and quick.
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• #5569
As a guess the step looks about 6" deep, so concrete shuttered to that height is going precisely nowhere. Presuming the area to be filled is about 6' x 2', 8 25kg bags of ballast and 2 of cement (4:1 mix) will do the job nicely. A few non-touching slabs laid directly on the existing concrete in a single layer would do no harm. Clean the existing concrete off first. Half a day should do the whole job easily, even if you haven't got a mixer.
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• #5570
seeing as you're on Colin, I'm laying a slab for a 6x8 shed in the summer, with a few courses of bricks to raise the shed up as well. I'm pretty confident on slab technique/prep etc. But would you recommend sizing it precisely to fit the shed or leaving a lip around the outside of 6" or so?
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• #5571
Shed manufacturers tend to be slightly inaccurate. Also, the footprint of the floor is generally a bit smaller than the overlapping cladding. I would suggest a lip of 4" per side. I generally suggest a 2 degree fall across the base to prevent water sitting under the shed, set this up with the shuttering.
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• #5572
cheers. the shed is actually an old one that's currently standing elsewhere in the garden so i can measure it accurately. you seem to be saying make the floor smaller, but then say a 4" lip, or have i got you wrong?
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• #5573
Nope, the floor is normally smaller than the cladding which will overhang it on all sides. If you can accurately measure the widest part of the existing shed go 4" more than that for the concrete base. This will allow for it being a bit out of square in any given direction when you rebuild it.
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• #5574
Dug over and weeded about half the veggie patch this afternoon. Soil was quite damp and heavy... Going to feel that in the back tomorrow...
#middleagedthread>>>>>>>
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• #5575
Oh I've never had them self seed before!