Functional bikes. Not Porn not Anti

anyone know what these cranks are?

Specialized ST-5 by SunTour.

Thanks! Encyclopaedic knowledge.

. double post

Effective searching, but don't tell anyone. :)

Tell them what? ;)

first post here! my omnium cxc, nothing special but its my do it all bike :)

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Watching this gave me the chills. Nice mods though, kinda on topic with all this snow going on around where I live. Imagine getting a flat at -50°. At least you don't have to worry about freezing your fingers with using the co2 capsule.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kJF7hhRvMQg

Good to see some love for Elder. You don't see me rocking any other bandpatches ;)

Now about the clearance on the Stav. I'm rather obsessed with tyre diameters, specifically effective outer diameters rim+tyre. I knew that something in the range of 622x45-50 worked best for me with the bb-drop of 70mm. Needless to say switching to 584-wheels with a tyre like a WTB Horizon was out the question as it would lower the bb way too much. I had such good experiences of 3" tyres and drop bars on my Monster Marin I decided I'd do the same with the Stav. More flexibility with two wheelsets for different purposes.
I was on the fence if I would build a 559 or 584 wheelset but chose the new industry standard because of more options in the rim and tyre department. The 2.6" Mezcal is pretty bang on 66,6mm and is close enough to a 622x45 tyre depending on tyre sag. Perfect.
I was going the make the front fork myself but couldn't pass on a killer deal for the one I have now. Konga made, Pacenti MTB crown, Reynolds 631 blades and all the braze-on's I wanted.
The rear triangle though I made myself. Twice actually...
First try which you can see pics of a bit further up was too hastily done. I brazed the chainstays centered on the Konga yoke but that resulted in horrific q-factor. Going from a 109mm UN91 and the Spesh cranks I had to widen the bb axle to 122mm and switch to low profile Ritchey Logic Compacts and it just felt so wrong. I like a pretty narrow q-factor, feels better in the knees.

So with 5 days left before leaving for a 1000km tour I couldn't help but to start from scratch. Luckily I had some Zona chainstays left over and Konga mailed me some new seatstays. You know that saying, measure twice, cut once? I didn't even measure the theoretical q-factor once :D
Anyway second times a charm and everything worked out great. I could even go back to the 109mm bb and Spesh cranks.
The bike worked great on both tours last summer with 622 and 584 tyres.

lmao I need some of those gloves

Awesome! Are you still using the bar-end shifter for the fd? If so, is it neccessary to cope with the large difference in teeth or is it just a matter of preference?

The barend for the front has it's roots with a well-hated front derailleur, the 5800.
For all the trees in Finland I couldn't get it to work properly with the RS785 hoods, probably also due to the actuator arm hitting the tyre. Swapped out the 5800 for a Shimano Z-series but I guess cable pull has just evolved too much in 40 odd years. Hence, the Ultegra 8spd era barend.
I love it for the front der, especially because I use chainrings from different makes without chain guides and rather custom chainlines and chainring spacing. The barend doesn't give a shit, it just works. But I would never use it for the rear, brifters ftw.

But I would never use it for the rear, brifters ftw.

It's surprisingly good, indexed that is.

Function is probably good, can't really say as I haven't tried. It's just that I usually spec my riding position so that I'm most comfortable in the hoods or ramps, not the drops. Coming up on a steeper or more technical section it's so easy to just make some hand gesture towards the left barend and it drops to the 30t but I couldn't think that I would be comfortable making as many shifts as I do to the rear from a barend. Hydro's are great because I can ride the brakes without them actually braking and I'm already there if I want to shift. Just something I've gotten use to after some odd years with this bike.

Thanks for the info! The reason I was asking is because I recently put a DIY sub-compact double with 24/42 rings without ramps on my tourer. The shifting is “okay” with the rapid fire xt shifter but I have a pair of xt thumbies on another bike that I could swap. Might give it a try - if it doesn’t improve the shifting it should at least be more reliable.

I had them on a road-bike based commuter and had issues with my knees hitting them when riding out of the saddle :/

That's what flared dropbars are for ;)
If the problem persists, widen drop bars until problem is solved. The Stav's are 58 in the hoods and 65 in drops!

Coming up on a steeper or more technical section it's so easy to just make some hand gesture towards the left barend and it drops to the 30t

I have the same experience; works really well.

I couldn't think that I would be comfortable making as many shifts as I do to the rear from a barend.

No, I agree. For technical riding they are not ideal, having to let go of the bars.

But I've noticed when going back to my bike with brifters after riding bar ends for a long time, brifters just feel sloppy and imprecise to me. A lot of lever throw before anything happens. Don't know how to adequately describe it. I just really like the mechanical, direct, and confident shifting of an indexed bar end.

The truth right here. Not much experience with barends as I wrote earlier but I'd like to think thumbies are comparable in feel. SunTour XC Pro thumbies and a load of XT thumbies have that same mechanical confidence in index mode in my experience. Even some crusty Campy Euclid(?) thumbies really came to life after some basic rinsing with WD40.

Shimano brifters, which I prefer, feel quite sensitive to wear as they get sloppy and imprecise as you put it after heavy use. Just built a new bike with GRX600 brifters and a Ultegra RX rear der and the shifting is so crisp. It's just bang bang everywhere. Wish I could have new brifters everyday.
I'm no Campy fanatic but that's a whole different cup of magic.

Makes sense, I’ll keep that in mind when I’ll eventually resurrect them from the spare parts drawer. I quite like this hack from one of your other bikes.
Is there a notable difference in friction?

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Nice hack. Actually copied from the 90's pro peloton.

That's my gf's smallish Miyata with 40cm dropbars. Had to get creative with the tight turns and trying to fit a Carradice handlebar bag between the bars on a front rack.
It worked ok but with plenty of room for improvement. I should have used Nokon housing or one of those noodles with a little flex. The noodle for the derailleur worked great for the derailleur but kindof interfered with the brake levers return. It didn't return all the way by itself as the noodle didn't have enough give. I also always adjust my gf's brakes to the loosest spring settings so the lever feel is feather light but at the expense of lever return. It's tricky but worth the effort. I usually get lazy with my own brakes so I just put the spring in the middle canti stud hole and have a bit more lever resistance.

Edit. Forgot to answer the actual question. No, there's no difference in cable friction.

He can't fix a flat at -50, the tubes are frozen!

https://youtu.be/fdWe9wEEbyM?t=755

some hand gesture towards the left barend and it drops to the 30t

This was the best thing about bar-ends. I found it to be equally as easy to knock down a vague number of sprockets at the back approaching a hill fwiw but since moved to "worst of all worlds" dt shifters for the daft reason of being able to swap bars easily.

What is the rear rack on your pelago? Custom?

That guy is nuts! 😀

i will never moan about cycling to work when its minus 2 outside again.