Any question answered...

Thanks.

I looked at Anker but the price is so close to OEM, I wasn't sure it was worth it. Plus as I mentioned that Samsung one is nice and compact with a bottom exit which suits where I wanted to use it.

@grams - thanks for flagging that. I didn't notice and assumed it was just a cheaper white version of this: https://www.uk-mobilestore.co.uk/collections/accessories-phone-accessories-chargers/products/official-samsung-galaxy-s9-s9-plus-fast-charger-with-type-c-cable-black

Not sure of the best place to ask this, so defaulting to here.

I am having a fireguard made out of mild steel, it will be a combination of 15mm box and around 12mm tube, both in 1mm thick steel. Does anyone know if there is a minimum thickness of steel that can be powdercoated?

I’ve never dented a rim before. Just changed some tyres over on a bike and noticed a slight ding. It’s pretty slight and it’s a disc brake wheel - I can just keep riding that, right?

No idea to your question, but is there a risk of the heat damaging the PC?

If you are having it black I'd be tempted to ask if they can do a Japanned finish - although it might warp I guess.

Apparently powdercoat is heat resistant to 550c (random first google hit) if my fire gets that hot about a metre away then it probably means my house is on fire.

I did consider trying to paint it in stove paint, but given there will be about 30 75cm high bars I figured that would get very annoying very quickly.

1mm thick steel

I think that’s about as thick as bike frame tubes get, so I can’t see why it’d be a problem to powdercoat.

Good point! I suspect the quality of the steel I will use for this is slightly lower than bike frames, but guess that won't make a huge difference.

Apparently powdercoat is heat resistant to 550c

Only special high temp types. Ordinary commercial/decorative coating can start to fail at temperatures below 100°C.
For a fire-guard, I'd avoid any kind of polymer coating. A straightforward gun-smithing type of hot or cold bluing will provide a pleasing aesthetic and adequate corrosion resistance, and it won't evolve toxic smoke if it gets burnt.

Ah, good knowledge. I shall speak to the local painters and see what they offer, to be fair its to cordon off an inglenook, so the guard will be a metre away from the log burner at all points anyway.

Should be fine, maybe keep an eye on it for crack development if it's anywhere near a spoke hole. Otherwise you'll probably get years more out of it!

Cheers, I’ll check the nearest spoke hole. Fairly solid wheels so I’ll carry on abusing them.

Long shot - Anyone got a LiFePO4 compatible balance charger who wants to have a go at charging a battery for me or lend me the charger in exchange for some beers?

Is there any difference in makes for that bathroom window privacy film stuff or should I just buy what I find cheap?

Is the charging profile similar to LiPo and LiFe? If so then yes, depending on the connectors you have...

I have one of these.

Edit: if LiFEPO4 is the same as a four series cell liFe battery, then yes.

LiFe is the same thing, charger looks promising! I've got 5.5mm bullet connectors and XT60 connectors if either of those would work?

XT60

I don't use these (I use deans), but it looks like the socket on the front in to which I connect a Deans adapter is XT60. Or it might be XT30. Gah.

Sorry. My mortgage broker wants to sell me life insurance that isn’t the kind that has a maturity pay out, he’s only giving me the options of some different companies all costing in the region of £10 a month for the premium. but everyone I have asked has said that I should try and get one with a maturity value. Any help?

Why do you want one with a maturity value??
If you have spare money there are probably better options for you than through an insurance company.

thanks, oh right, i didn’t realise they were more expensive, but cheaper in the long run because you get all your money back? i’m sorry i’m clueless

If you get one with a maturity value it will be made up of two elements

1. the life insurance part
   
2. the investment part
   you will of course only pay one premium.
   
   

you are being advised by your adviser just to buy part 1, the life insurance part.

ps nothing in life is free

thanks so much

How do these brakes work?

I have it in my head they’re ‘V brakes’ but they have what looks like an interface for straddle cable end boss thing. There’s no noodle or that hinged metal thing that noodles slot into.

Is it basically a Canti that works on a near vertical angle? Sold as ‘great for using 26” brake mounts to 650b wheel’, there’s certainly loads of adjustment on the barrel.

2 Attachments

They look like they may work in the same way as Avid Shorty Ultimates (An excellent and highly recommended brake). And I think you may have some required bits missing.

Are they for the Pedersen?

I think they’re a type of cantilever that’s not actually a cantilever. To be a true canti there should be angle of 90° between the pivot point and the straddle cable, which is why most early cantis were quite wide. Then back in the late 80’s some kid in California came up with a brake called the Marinovative Decelerator which was way more upright, and as the straddle wire wasn’t anywhere near 90° it was probably more of a v-brake. I never saw one in the flesh here, they were stupidly expensive but cool as fuck. Shimano then bought out their version of much more upright cantis, and Tektro broke into the market with some very cool and underrated versions, which you could also get in groovy anodised colours, including purple. That was important in mountainbiking back then.

So yeah, they’re a sort of canti-V hybrid. They’re probably a bit shit compared with a V brake, tbh.