Home DIY

I probably wouldn't have thought it, so cheers for that.

If you are pilot drilling like that you should use bigger steps up. Too small change in diameter with a masonry bit you run the risk of the bit catching and being very difficult to remove.

Good quality sds bit recommendations anyone?

Also, even with pilot hole(s), there is a chance you'll knock a chunk of plaster off the wall on the exit hole. Not a massive deal, but have a think about which side would be easier to do a bit more making good on before you start just in case, if you have the luxury of being able to drill from either side.

When I put the outside tap in, I drilled from the outside in as I didn't want to risk blowing out a chunk of external brick work. Still managed to knock off about 2sq ft of plaster on the kitchen wall, but it was behind the washing machine so didn't really care after the initial "ah, fuck".

Also, if you are sloppy, like me, an SDS+ drill couldn't give two fucks about pilot holes. I drilled one at 8mm before going through with the 16mm thinking one would follow the other. I ended up with one hole on the outside and two different sized holes on the inside as the 16mm just fucked off wherever it wanted to. But just be more careful than I was and it'll be fine.

It'll be getting plastered so I'll make sure I get this sorted before hand and it should be possible to get it looking quite neat.

The table saw holds a special place in the cultural consciousness as something uniquely dangerous. This discussion has reminded me of Robert Frost’s poem ‘Out, Out -’ : “The buzz saw snarled and rattled in the yard / Snarled and rattled”. The title of the poem is a reference to Macbeth, “Out, out, brief candle / Life’s but a walking shadow” and the lad using the buzz (old school table) saw in the poem does indeed snuff it.

Bosch for smaller ones hilti for 30mm+

cultural consciousness

One features prominently in the Johnny Cash biography certainly.

Do you pronounce her name as A-la or I-la or something else?

A-la

Nice name. It's Scottish right?

Thanks - wife's family are Scottish.

Our sparky has put some armoured cable behind a new wall and wired some lighting loops behind.

I want to test the lights when they come and I’m happy about wiring those up but wondered what the best was to get a three pin plus on the end of the armoured so I can plug them in for a test.

Is there some sort of adaptor?

I’m baffled by what I’ve seen online about voltage drops and length of cable etc.

DOn't do this, but I have a super un-advisable three pin plug on one end of a lead with terminal blocks on the other end for testing if stuff works. Connect item's bare wires to terminal blocks, plug in, switch on, check for magic smoke, turn off, unplug and immediately remove wires of the thing from the terminal block. Lock the plug and lead away from anyone else in the house. Don't do this, but nothing has caught fire or exploded, yet. And I've been able to determine if stuff (eg, some light fittings we picked up off ebay) are working. Don't do this.

Is there some sort of adaptor?

There are 3-core to 3-core waterproof adaptors (https://www.screwfix.com/p/hylec-2-entry-3-pole-in-line-cable-joint/92911) but the steel armour cables won't be earthed so it's a bodge.

You could upgrade to this: https://gavshop.co.uk/quicktest-mains-connector-safe-block-wall-desk-mount-pat-testing-adaptor-4496-p.asp , much reduced risk of death.

The old plug and lead from mrs_com's macbook charger were cheaper, and available.

Thanks. Like I say, it’s literally to test whether the lights are powerful enough for the patio before they are fixed.

In commercial woodworking the table saw is replaced by the planer (jointer if you're American). Good example would be this video (not for those of a week constitution no graphic images but still pretty intense)

https://youtu.be/AZMe0QIET6g

For those interested there is a whole series documenting his recovery and rather amazingly his eventual return to work.

You'll have to fanny around getting the armour cables out of the way, worth watching a video on prepping armoured cable to get the various insulating layers cut to the right length.

What screws would I use with these https://www.fischer.co.uk/en-gb/products/standard-fixings/plastic-fixings/duopower/555010-duopower-10-x-50

8mm screws don't seem to be a thing so far as I can tell so not sure what I should be using with those plugs.

Floor done, a few trim pieces left. Turned out ok, good learning experience!

1 Attachment

They're for 6 to 8mm screws. There are plenty of 6mm screws on the Screwfix website is there a reason why your after 8mm in particular?

nice - is it Forbo?
also - I've never seen that done with the white paint around the radiator but I like it!

The loads spec sheet has them with an 8mm diameter screw https://ugfds005.blob.core.windows.net/media/Load%20Tables/Load%20Tables%20fischer/LT_01_DUOPOWER_F_SEN_AIP_V2.pdf so I assumed that that would be the strongest option.