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  • I think I know the answer to this, but...

    ...my very old house has fibre glass insulation attached to the roof "sheathing" (this is old wood boards). I have never really poked my head in the loft but I did last night and noticed that one baton/beam was a bit wet. Likely condensation, which I would assume is from having fibreglass insulation right up against it reducing airflow.

    Paging @TW as he seems to know his roofing.

  • I did that for our kitchen table - milk paint, varnish and multiple clear coats. I’m pleased with the results but accept that dents, chips and wear occur.
    I would go solid wood for countertop.

  • I was just watching that. Definitely something to look at.

    It’s arriving Saturday. Exciting.

  • Nice one. Recommend you upgrade the blade to something a little nicer (eg freud) to get cleaner cuts.

    If you haven't used a TS before, please watch some videos on safe use, there are a number of not so obvious things to watch out for that could really make a bad day.

    Andy mac on YT has a good video should you find a spare 30 minutes. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eUx8oTIALmg

  • Cheers.

    This is my 3rd table saw so hopefully up to speed by now....

    Had a quick Look for a better blade. Is 80T overkill? Was thinking either 48 or 60T but there's not really much difference in terms of ££.

  • Max I have is 60T (freud). Is great for cross cutting in terms of leaving a very fine cut and minimising tear out, but not so good for ripping. More effort to push through, slower and more likely to burn your work, and finer more airborne dust. I generally only use it if I am doing some cross cutting and really am afraid of potential tear out. The rest of the time I use a 24T (also freud). While the teeth are sharp even cross cutting leaves a near perfect splinter free finish.

    I've never tried a 48T (I think this is what they call a combination blade?), but if I was going to go for one blade to rule them all I'd be tempted to try one.

    80T seems overkill.

  • For all those working at home on a laptop/ multi-screens -I am in the process of setting up a new home work station and wondered if anyone has any neat solutions.

    I am looking at a laptop stand next to a dual screen mount, but i find them awfully ugly.

    Are there any prettier solutions?

  • Don't have any pretty options, but if you would like the sit/stand option but dont want a whole new desk, I have one of these adapters that works better than expected. Two monitors plus laptop just about squeeze one. Would be nice to get the laptop screen at the same height as the monitors though.

    I have this one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07ZJ35CD6

  • Yeah - I think it's sort of a combination blade.

    This looks like a decent set to pick up. It's fine on kerf thickness (min 2.4mm according to specs) but it's 4mm smaller on diameter (205mm vs 254mm) - can't see any reason why that would be an issue..?

  • Assume you mean 250 vs 254. Nope, other than you will lose 2mm of cut capacity. The 24T from that set is the one I have, I think you will be happy with it / them.

    FYI, Freud have updated their line and those blades are now superseeded by these:https://www.ffx.co.uk/product/Get/Freud-Fr23W001T-4059952521732-250Mm-X-30Mm-X-T24-T40-Table-Saw-Blades-2Pk

    I don't know if they have gotten better or worse, the anti vibration slots look more contemporary...

  • I did mean 250mm.

    Thanks for the link - I'll pick these up then.

  • interesting - thanks for the advice

  • Don't use the laptop screen was my solution. Have the laptop closed out of the way.

  • Very good saw, at a very good price. So good I've risked the wrath of my accountant and blown my tool budget for this quarter when I have 0 income...... But it's a bargain.

    Other option was to get a festool with the saws top tech but for the 5 times a year I'll really use it

    Saw stop tech is very good but designed for the US commercial market it is much less relevant here. To give you an example; if I run my big saw in my workshop without a riving knife and crown guard and anything happens I risk serious jail time. Basically in the US they use tablesaws for almost everything often without a riving knife or crown guard. In this situation the saw stop tech becomes a sensible addition safety wise its not worth saw stop marketing here because commercially there is 0 demand hence why they've licenced it to a company to put on site saws because safety on building sites is slightly more laissez-faire than in a workshop especially when a foreman utters the fateful words "just get it done, I don't care how."

  • Good to hear. Felt like a great price from the reviews. Looking forward to Saturday although I won't be doing any major projects until March / April time.

    Sawstop was really a wife selling feature. I wanted the Festool because 'fancy' and the saws top feature is a great way of getting her buy-in. In reality, as long as you're not being a twat, you're very unlikely to ever need it.

  • A riving knife is a better safety feature than a sawstop anyway.

  • In my experience complacency is the reason stuff goes wrong with dangerous equipment. Personally I think you're much more likely to be complacent with something like that.

    Out of curiosity did you have to pay for shipping? I'm a little bit peeved because Bosch's UK head office and distribution centre is walking distance from here and I'm having to pay a tenner for shipping.

  • Got Amazon prime; doesn’t look like any shipping cost:


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  • You’re right. I mainly wanted the Festool because it’s shiny. Really shouldn’t need to spend that kind of £.

    Just deciding on building our a cart for it or building a flip top on the work table.

  • I've got prime also and I got charged weird.

  • Where are you based? I got a strange message about delivery to Scotland when I ordered.

  • very little money

    lol - how much do you earn again?!

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Home DIY

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