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If its gone all loosey goosey on you, start over.
Thicker/ larger gauge (smaller number) spokes are harder to 'judge' what the tension is by feel, defo a job for a proper spoke tensionometer.
Beware, a lot of rims just aren't really upto the cargo bike life, seen folk rebuild wheels with larger gauge spokes and find the rim just deforms around the nipple holes (even with washers), or just crack n fail soon after.Recently had a guy with a home brew cargo bike, was pretty cool, but had those solid glue on tyres on cheap hybrid rims, every single nipple hole/eyelet in the rear was cracked or deformed noticeably. He'd just kept tightening the spokes but couldn't figure out/see that the rims were just crumbling.
The front wheel was also approx 1/3 of all of them were cracked after only 800 miles. Recommended he use real tyres, the type with air in them.
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BrickMan
@ian(conker)
Anyone had issues with thick (11 guage) spokes working loose?
About 10 miles into a 17 mile journey my UA suddenly started to wobble. First thing I checked was front tyre/wheel/steering rod, then I noticed back wheel (that I'd recently re-built) was untrue. In fact all the spokes on the drive side were so loose that I could hand spin them to tighten a bit - I didn't have an 11g spoke key with me. A friend sent me a clip saying that thick spokes have a prepensity to work loose. Is this true? If so, does that mean I need to strip the wheel down, degrease & re-lace with threadlock?