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So main electricity would burn out that switch? Maybe that's why the person who built the one in my photo, bypassed it completely.
Mine also has two wires going to it - bolted onto separate places on the shell, which then feed to the switch.
There appears to be a space for a large battery too, which presumably means the light can stay on if you're not moving.
In that case, it should be fairly straightforward to drill a hole in the back of the lamp and add a mains type bulb holder and a switch, either on the lamp, or somewhere else. I'm thinking of using old TA crank arms, so the light can pivot - then it's just a case of finding a suitable base...
kowarler
@Jonny69
^ Cool!
@kowarler I have an early lamp like the one in the first pic. Probably stating the obvious, but don't put mains through the switch! Low voltage like 6-12V ought to be ok. I think the shell on these is the -ve ground terminal but I've got it in my head that the old Dynohub on mine had two wires going into the lamp and the switch did something strange because it has multiple positions. It might have been to switch the front and rear lamp.