Home DIY

I’ve tried to rejig the room layout to avoid it but it ain’t gonna work. It’s an upstairs office so no little humans allowed.

Also it’s 606; as above Vitsoe are confident their design mitigates the risk.

Could also opt for the semi wall mounted solution where the load is mostly on the floor.

Interesting that you can see that level of detail with the studs but not the CH pipes, understandable the theory behind it though. The fuse breaker I totally get, I think it's the application I've seen them mostly aimed at for electricians. Fires from loose CU terminals are the main reason for the new regs regarding metal CU enclosures and intumescent linings. I think it was the number 1 cause of death from electrical fire, fire in the consumer unit under the stairs, leading to combustion of flammable materials stored in the cupboard. Blocking the means of escape by setting light to the stairs.

The semi wall mounted looks lovely. It does add quite a bit to the cost though!

I'm a massive fan of the product and the company know what they are doing. Have you looked into having them install it? That might mitigate the worries.

Yeah I’ve not found anything aesthetically acceptable so thinking a remote module in the ceiling is the way forward. Plenty to choose from on Amazon but loathe to add yet another ‘smart’ app from a random Chinese brand.

It’s an upstairs office so no little humans allowed.

Yeah, and it's going to be extremely easy to keep little humans out of it. :)

I’ll just ask nicely. Never fails!

Anyone use aftermarket batteries? Is it a bad idea? are there any brands that can be trusted?

For power tools obvs.

Most are ZigBee so if you want to make the effort you can control them with Home Assistant rather than the random app (or integrate them into Hue). It's a bit of a rabbit hole though.

I've been using a FLYLINKTECH 5AH with my Makita stuff for a while now and very pleased with them. No discernible difference from my 3Ah genuine ones, other than the 5ahs have more oomph. There were some reservations from others a few pages back regarding aftermarket batteries that might be worth reading, but for me I have been happy with them and bought a couple more to go with my battery lawnmower.

The company I worked for at the time was told by the principle contractor who was told by the client that they were required for all work onsite that involved drilling into walls or floors. This was after someone accidentally knocked out an air traffic control server room with a services strike, luckily because it was a critical system there were/are multiple redundancies. It did however cause a certain amount of chaos.

https://youtu.be/RjBiM0GQEe8

American video but good info

I dropped a hundred quid on one and it isn't great, I have to say. No better than the one I bought for £20 from HomeBase years ago.

All these garage tests (literally every video the guy does) lack arguably the most important bit of testing - durability and function over time.

And doing tests to failure always annoys me - some tools have safety cut outs to prevent damage to tools and batteries and others don’t. A tool designed to cut out before damage occurs will score worse on the test but last longer in real life. If you’re ragging on a tool to the point of cutout, you’re probably using the wrong tool in the first place.

Also, for batteries, the amount of charge cycles they can withstand is one of the more important factors, and I didn’t see that taken into consideration (admittedly had a quick skim through).

/rant.

Edit, and only testing output and function without actual real world function testing is pretty irrelevant. There’s not much point to a drill that has loads of torque but is uncomfortable in the hand, or has other poor ergonomics.

Edit for simplicity - ‘lead mate’ or equivalent sealant appropriate for sealing between the overlapping lead on the flat section and where the lead meets the top stone? Yellow and blue sections.

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Any recommendations for a paint stripper to get several layers off our timber french doors? Scraping and sanding is getting me nowhere.

Nitromors. Heat gun.

IR paint stripper is end game. Speedheater Cobra is a brilliant one but spendy. If you buy one you will soon be able to sell it on here to the next person who wants one.

https://www.speedheater.com/en/product/speedheater-cobra/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1kLfK0WNePM&ab_channel=Tools%26Stuff

This type of tool is good on flat surfaces. Makita make one that I have. They are very dangerous, borderline frightening.

I lent mine to my brother and he bought one when I needed it back. I prefer the ir gun because it handles mouldings which are the bane of a restorers life.

Of course, anything aviation safety connected is going to be extra expensive. I wouldn't want to be the guy who knocked out ATC!

Christ that stripper looks dangerous, and an easy way to fuck up a job.

It's a real thriller.

One problem with the design is the little doors that cover the spinning blades on the sides. Usually you have them covering the blades but if you then bump the door into an upright like the edge of a widow cill the blade will eject it. Then you end up with no guard or having to carry a spare and tape them on. I understand they are useful for staircases but I've not stripped one since I've had it.

It also sprays shards of old paint everywhere but definitely mostly at your eyes. On top of that you spend the whole time terrified that you might accidentally put it down before the blade stops.

However, it strips paint very well and when you get it dialled in you can strip a window cill in minutes without damaging the wood. It goes on every job with me but gets used about 20%of the time because it's a drama and the ir gun will do it in a little bit more time + the mouldings without threatening life and limb. It's a little bit safer than it looks :)

In summary, when you think about the damage it could do, surgery wouldn't fix it. It's sobering.

Sounds perfect. What length does the track go up to? I need to cut 205cm.

Thanks, the IR stripper looks great but out of budget unfortunately. That handheld milling machine looks terrifying tbh.

I think I’ll have to go with some nitromors type product and take my time. Once it’s stripped would zinsser 123 be a suitable primer before I put down a finish coat?

Knocking out some plywood shelves.

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Honestly I’d use a sander over nitromors now. They changed the formula and it’s shite now, there probs is other stuff out there that does the job but it me be sold only to professionals.