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• #106652
Any recommendations for somewhere that'll replace a knackered zip on a Goretex shell jacket? Happy to post, so countrywide. Lancashire Sports Repair have popped up while searching and seem to be rated.
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• #106653
https://www.scottishmountaingear.com/ I haven't used them but have seen recommended a few times.
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• #106654
I guess this probably the simplest answer. I don't ride on the trainer much, but had still noticed that my rear tire was wearing quicker than the front.
that is the case anyway , as the drive goes through the rear wheel.
same with cars, whichever is used to do the driving whether front or rear wheel drive wears out first
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• #106655
True, but I mean even quicker. You also get more heat buildup on the turbo vs on the road
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• #106656
I've used Lancashire Sports Repair, they're good.
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• #106657
While not zips specifically, lots of people use them for resoling and rate their service.
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• #106658
First, don't @ me in threads in which I'm obviously already active, it's just annoying. Second, that brand throws up a huge array of red flags for me which means I wouldn't touch them with a ten foot pole.. Third, yeah, it appears to be a debris shield not a structurally important part of the BB, so if you don't mind exposing your bearings to whatever crap finds it's way into the frame, go ahead. If you're trying to make room for wires to pass through the BB shell, bear in mind that if you delete the sleeve, the wire will eventually be cut through by the rotating axle, so there's that.
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• #106659
Anyone have current email address for Kevin Winter frame builder and refinisher?
Fanx.
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• #106660
Much appreciated. Noted on the @.
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• #106661
where can i find a 1/4 x 11 dura ace bearing race and bearings ?
from a da 7400 bottom bracket
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• #106662
So I've noticed a slight bend/fold in my Kalo uno stem, do i need to replace?
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• #106663
Is this an original Thomson seatclamp bolt? 3mm Allen. Came with a new 36.4 clamp I bought. I thought they were flat topped and brass/gold colour...
2 Attachments
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• #106664
You've answered your own question there. The probability of finding spare parts from 30 years ago is pretty slim.
If you mean cage where you wrote race, then it's fine as a second best option to run that BB with loose balls, so just get some good quality steel balls from your favourite bearing shop. There's a German ebay seller with NOS caged balls for about £40, my German isn't up to knowing whether that's per side or per set.
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• #106665
Anyone have any experience with laser etching steel?
I want to get a logo etched onto a small piece of thin plate.
What type of file does the artwork need to be in?
Is there a small company you’d recommend? -
• #106666
The process for logos is a raster system, so your shop will be able to work from pretty much any image format. I send PDF just because using universally readable vector images avoids any clash between the resolution of a raster file and the resolution of the marking equipment, but I've had perfectly good results off monochrome PNG at 1200dpi, so you don't need to convert to vector if you already have a high resolution raster image of your logo.
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• #106667
Nice one.
I’m actually hand drawing the lettering, so I’ll have to scan it and trace.
I thought it would have to be in a vector Pdf or a DXF file, the latter is easier for me. -
• #106668
Kid has a kids torch which inevitably they look at or shine in my eyes.
I want some kind of defuser vinyl to go over the lenses to reduce the glare, but not dim it so much that they can't have fun with it.
Anyone have a link to the sort of stuff I need?
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• #106669
Anyone know how ALE clothing sizes up in comparison to other cycle kit?
Rapha/Pearl Izumi/Endura/Sportful etc -
• #106670
Yup, no longer gold and flat topped.
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• #106671
Or on other stuff I've used car window blackout vinyl. There's also these things https://www.amazon.co.uk/LightDims-Original-Strength-CoversDims-Different/dp/B009WSJNCW
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• #106672
There's also these things https://www.amazon.co.uk/LightDims-Original-Strength-CoversDims-Different/dp/B009WSJNCW
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• #106673
/\ I can relate to that far to easily.
I've had a problem with damp for a few years, well more wet mould.
We had the gutters cleaned and the eaves finished with insulation, a few tiles replaced.
Its upstairs,which is odd, by the ceilings and skirtings, sometimes it comes down behind one of our bookcases but weve managed to reduce its ferocity loads. It does come back though, behind things like books that you won't see till you take said book off the shelf.The other side of the room is a wardrobe that is like deaths cape. Thats the main issue.
We bleach the walls to kill the mould, leave the door open for a few days. Thing is its sweating, or rather condensating constantly. We cant use it.
Would it help if after the clean and dry we put a dehumidifier in for a few days?
Would it help if i drilled holes in the top and bottom of the door for airflow?
It should have clothes in it not a portal to the RingWraiths bathroom!TLDR;
I have a mouldy built in wardrobe can I drill holes in the door for airflow to fight the mould? -
• #106674
You've answered your own question there. The probability of finding spare parts from 30 years ago is pretty slim.
If you mean cage where you wrote race, then it's fine as a second best option to run that BB with loose balls, so just get some good quality steel balls from your favourite bearing shop. There's a German ebay seller with NOS caged balls for about £40, my German isn't up to knowing whether that's per side or per set.
so these could be replaced with loose bearing of a similar size ? 1/4"
by race i meant the cage that holds the bearing in place, here is the singular one in question
i don't even know any bearing shops let alone have a fave one ! , would a modern manufacturer like fag or skfstill make the cage and bearing set ?
could you link to that german seller i'll take a look but it sounds a bit pricey, that being said i haven't had a look at the price of 22 nice bearings yet,
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• #106675
Caged bearings are used largely as a convenience for assembly, loose balls will be fine : )
I guess this probably the simplest answer. I don't ride on the trainer much, but had still noticed that my rear tire was wearing quicker than the front.
@chez_jay - I'm having to tighten the barrel adjuster, so that wouldn't work.