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"I don't know it is possible to enjoy cycling without paper maps."
I don't particularly agree with that statement (for me) either but I understand that for some people the map on the bar bag is a thing. I do like a paper map and all I wanted this for was planning a trip but having bought larger scale maps I realise that the size of anything with more detail is stupid so I'll rely on digital.
atz
I meant open street maps. I'm not trying to be a wise-ass, just genuinely interested in the statement "I don't know how it is possible to enjoy cycling without paper maps."
As for contours, you can find them on opencyclemap and opentopomap (with hillshading).
I love building routes and couldn't do it without the opencyclemap detail combined with google streetview and heatmap. (All possible in RWGPS).