PhilDAS never content with the bikes I already own

Of course. It is on point that's what it is.

Tijmen is on ignore now

If red do this

https://www.dekerf.com/products/frames/red-fillet-brazed-road-bike-with-custom-stem/

:( I just feel like he doesn’t have the age for it, looks good on yours mind.

The red on the Standert is best, the red on the bike mentioned above is good too.

No way you can talk your way out of it. You are in the black book kow

Man. Just stumbled across your scott on page 2. We had uncanny similar set ups. Had to do a double take. Even the same water bottle (shit pic)

2 Attachments

RIP </3

That Scott was the only bike you've ever loved

It was a long time ago. I’ve had better since.
Was nice that it was a family gift however

Ew that looks like ketchup.

Compromise and go for metallic baby poo

Still thinking about this 3T.
Got a mate pestering me to sort it so we can ride off road in the next couple of weeks.
I'd go ahead and epoxy the seatpost in place as a quick and dirty solution but If I could build in at least some adjustability, Id prefer to do that.
I'm wondering about the possibility of bonding in the seatpost as per option one but then cutting the top couple of inches off including the saddle rail clamp. Then with the cut off portion of the seatpost in place on the top of the post, wrapping both pieces in fresh carbon but with the bottom portion covered in tape or clingfilm so that the carbon sticks to the top half but not the bottom and yet fit's neatly around the bottom half of the post.
Essentially making an ISP and seat mast topper out of the single seatpost.
I could then drill and slot it and would need to come up with some clamping solution but the force of my weight would essentially still be down the seatpost which would be butted up against the top portion of the topper rather than relying on friction from the clamp, making the clamp's job just holding the topper in place instead of supporting any weight.

Just thinking out loud here

I did wonder whether an ISP topper from another brand could be close enough to fitting that it could be made to work.

Primarily a Giant Propel SL one which seems a similar shape but now looking at it, I think it's narrower than the 3T seatpost which is shorter and stubbier

Someone elses pic of the seatpost shape:

2021 TCR looks closer

May be shimmable

What's actually wrong with the 3T? Surely you are not the only person on the internet with this specific issue

I suspect this particular frame had an issue from the factory.

I got it on here as cracked and "repaired" the crack myself but didn't fix the issue which made the crack which is that the seatpost slips. It has a silly internal wedge clamp to hold the post in place and despite modifying the clamp so that it can press against the seatpost harder and the textured gritty finish on the seatpost I can't get it to stay put. Clamped up way above torque, I can whack the saddle with my hand and the post goes down a touch. Riding it, this means that the seatpost goes down by about a cm in 15 minutes or so.
I've tried a spacer behind the clamp so that it is further toward the seatpost and pushing more against the post but no better. It's covered in carbon assembly/grip paste, no good.

I've basically given up on the idea of getting the seatpost to stay put.
It is a very common issue with this frame but the solution for most is to just over tighten it which clearly an original owner has tried hence the cracking.

I paid for the whole bike basically the cost of the parts so the frame owes me nothing and therefore I'm not too concerned about ever selling it. I'm only concerned with adjustability in case I change shoes/pedals/saddle/crank length and it no longer fits perfect

Obviously not having photos or drawings it's impossible to comment on, but I can not imagine that it can't be fixed

I also don't want to pay to have it fixed :)

I have no idea what I’m talking about but here are some really stupid ideas:

1. loads of electrical tape everywhere
   
2. How much seatpost is in the frame? Enough to cut the bottom off and expoxy it as far down the inside of the seat tube as you can to make a shelf/shoulder for the rest of the post to sit on? cut some additional shims to give you adjustment of a few min increments up from where you want it (to use inside the seat tube before the clamp)? The bottom of the shortened seatpost can then sit against the glued in section of post and secure with the clamp? Add a 2mm shim to make it higher if required etc?
   

I would definitely urge you to do it yourself.

It is a very common issue with this frame but the solution for most is to just over tighten it which clearly an original owner has tried hence the cracking

Hey. Can I join the cracked 3T club plz?

Epoxy for you.

Warranty for me 🤞🏻.

As above though. Definitely think about putting a step in down the tub. Therefore can shim or cut as desired. Not sure if same shape but Strada seatpost on eBay for a tenner if you want to play.

Hey. Can I join the cracked 3T club plz?

Oh no!

Yes the wedge clamps on 3T frames really is a huge design flaw

134 excellent miles old. Lol.

Just seen a email actually from 3T basically telling me to ride it till it actually cracks. 🤷🏻‍♂️

Sounds like kicking a can down the road.

This is my preferred one -

How much seatpost is in the frame? Enough to cut the bottom off - expoxy it as far down the inside of the seatpost as you can to make a shelf/shoulder for the rest of the post to sit on? cut some additional shims to give you adjustment of a few min increments up from where you want it? The bottom of the shortened seatpost can then sit against the glued in piece of post and secure with the clamp? Add a 2mm shim to make it higher if required etc?

That could work but I'm not sure I'd firstly be able to sand a decent surface that far down in the frame and secondly be able to wrap enough carbon around the bottom section and epoxy so that it's a tight fit whilst also being able to get it through the hole in the top.

I think what I'll probably do is ditch the clamp/wedge which will save a few grams too (bonus) and wrap the very bottom of the post in a layer of carbon to thicken it a little, smother it in epoxy and put it into the frame.
Then with the bike on the turbo or something, try to find the exact ideal height to set it at with me hovering over it while pedalling.
Carefully get off it, leave it a while to set a bit and then wrap the exposed seatpost and the top tube/seat tube junction all in carbon to make one seamless ISP frame.
I can cross the adjustability bridge in the future if it comes to it and chop the post clamp off and figure out some kind of topper down the road

The issue with adding width to only the bottom of the post is that it could wiggle a bit in the frame... all or nowt I reckon, with a thicker bit at the lowest part of the exposed post to stop it dropping?

I’m typing as I think but here goes...
Work out your desired saddle height - mark the post and remove it - get another length of seatpost and chop the top off, stick it down the seat tube as far as it will go, mark it and take it out then subtract the length of the original post that sits in the frame... cut the new post again and smother it in glue and tap it back into the frame to cure... 🤷‍♂️

To be far it probably doesn’t need to be a complete ledge running around the inside of the seat tube - maybe a strip of material glued inside to allow part of the post to sit on a bit so it doesn’t drop further that your minimum saddle height?

Or get someone to 3D print something and use a carbon expander bung to make a secure anchor for the seatpost to sit on?

Does sound possible but honestly I think it's just easier to glue and wrap the thing in place and then I can ride the cursed thing