Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Hi. Hope everyone is well.
I'm trying to service my shimano deore fh-m530 rear hub. Serviced the front wheel no problem, running lovely now. However, the lock nut on the non drive side seems to be stuck, and there's no nut on the same side to apply any counter pressure with a cone spanner. Any advice on how I can get it off so that I can clean and grease the bearings. Any advice welcome. I've scoured the web and can't find anything other than the hub breakdown picture from the shimano website. Thanks!

Under the rubber seal?

Or something is wrong or missing, they're pretty normal hubs. Pics?

I can't get any purchase. The axle just goes round and round

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I took the rubber seal off. No parts missing. When I tried to loosen it, the drive side just came off fine. I tried using the cone nut on the drive side to get some purchase but haven't got a spanner that'll grab it inside the freehub body. Could i remove the freehub body to get to it?

here's the hub breakdown: https://ambringa.cdn.shoprenter.hu/custom/ambringa/image/cache/w1400h900wt1/product/AFHM530AZAL1.jpg?lastmod=-62169987600.1591627937

Could i remove the freehub body to get to it?

Not until you have the axle out 😁

haven't got a spanner that'll grab it inside the freehub body

Once you have the driveside lock nut off, the one should only be finger tight. If you can't get a wrenching there, pliers should provide enough grip on the cone flats to allow you to spin the axle out.

I think there should be wrench flats on the NDS cone, it's possible that the dust shield has become dislodged and is obscuring them.

Damn. Haha

Tried with pliers but no dice. It seems to have been over tightened so perhaps that’s why. Do you reckon if I get a big washer and a nut on the drive side for counter pressure it could work?

Both the washers on the NDS seem to be round. :-(

Both the washers on the NDS seem to be round

There's a washer① then a spacer② (both round) then the cone which has the dust shield③ pressed onto it. If you push the dust shield into the hub shell where it's supposed to be, you should see the flats on the cone

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@M_V
@gbj_tester
cheers! your technical disquisitions got me mentally horny as fuck about hubs... i've been thinking about them to sink them in...
thank you very much, i learnt a lot.

novatecs are quite obtainable here in italy...
i think my choice has now boiled down to novatecs vs ambrosio zeniths.
zenith is the only lowbudget hub easily available /w 36 holes.
i weight 63-65kg, but for my style of riding (pretty raw) and glorious Rome city pavement state (also pretty raw)..
what do you think? should i go 36?
also im' starting to wonder... how many spoke crossings? at least 2, that i do know... :) [im mostly concerned about the rear, the front doesn't bother me]

More spokes means lower chance of failure.

I get horny about hubs too. Your not the only one.
The zenith hubs are pretty good. I use more of them than miche partly because of availability and in part because the axles and not are well chromed.

There's no harm in using 36 spokes as long as it doesn't compromise your hub and rim choices, 32H is obviously more common and strong enough at your weight. Three cross all round either way, there's no good reason to do any different with large flange hubs. I might be tempted to go four cross for small flange 36H to minimise wind up, especially if running low gears for trick cycling.

when you want the maximum stiffness and reliability for shredding hard, 36 holes 4x crossed with double butted spokes on high flange hubs should be the best variant.

Is 4x enough tho? If you are shredding really really hard should you consider 5x?

hahaha dunno if you got that high of a flange :D

back to topic with a question:

I wanna build low flange record hubs to BOR 373 rims, and can't decide between Sapim CX-rays or Laser.
one is bladed, one is 1,5mm... the weigh the same, but CXs are far more expensive.... man I really dunno

Wheel dishing tool - I’m tired of stacking washers et cetera every time I build a wheel. Recommendations?
Tempted by Var and Cyclus because aesthetically but functionally, is Park the better option? Chainreaction sells Lifeline which seems to get a fair bit of love, or what about DIY? Maybe some square alu tubing + some fittings?

Flip the wheel in your jig.

Done that, never seems as accurate as laying the wheel out on a flat, non moving surface.

Tempted by Var and Cyclus because aesthetically but functionally, is Park the better option?

I've got the Park one. It's OK, but still quite annoying as it's difficult to adjust the inny-outy thingy accurately. It works though. The Abbey one is of course a thing of great beauty, but given that I very rarely use my Park tool - my build stand has DTIs so I can flip and compare pretty accurately- so I can't really justify the Abbey one.

Good grief that’s beautiful, a little out of my range though.

Yeah, no way I can justify it either - not after getting the Wheel Fanatyk spoke tensiometer and computer upload cable.

I prefer the Park to say lifeline ones.

The reason is you can sit it on the OLN while the wheel is in the stand. Whereas the Lifeline one is a cylinder, so you have to take it out of the stand to check.