Home DIY

Have you set it to L?

Edit: just watched the video. If you follow that and it doesn't work then time for power. Or burn it with fire.

Cheers. Have almost finished sorting mine out so will need to decide on my own fixtures.

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Full day of installing the forums most controversial flooring. Doing a decent job has been really slow going as there have been so many cut outs on the starting wall.

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I’m a purist/snob/paranoid.

I don’t know if the knock offs have the same cut off capability. Don’t want to shag tools/batteries.

Don’t use the black screwdriver “impact” bits, they’re always shite.

Use normal gold/grey wera and accept that they’ll explode every now and then. The black impact bits don’t seem to grip the heads very well IME.

Sexeh AF.

oh that's a nice texture. got a name/link?

It's wicanders, Cork resist+ novel brick natural. A cheaper very very similar option is wicanders Cork essence - originals character.

The L is by the little notch on the collar, and to get it there I twisted in the direction of the R->L instruction. I can't see the C on the collar which the instructions refer to though unless the notch is the C?

The bits with this driver are a larger diameter, so my usual bits wouldn't fit as they're loose in the driver. Matt mentioned this would be the case when I collected it.

The reviews online, and that video, show the tool works fine. I'm certain it is my incompetentce that is the limiting factor.

I only needed to remove appx 80 shelf screws and i've not managed to shift 45 of them, for the time I've spent around this today I'm at over 15 mins per screw.

Epic fail thread >>>>>>>>>>>

Ah, is it a hammer strike one? They’re good for machine screws etc that need “cracked” but less good for tight wood screws. If someone can lend you an 18v cordless impact driver, it’ll make a world of difference. I’d offer to help, but I’m a little far north unfortunately.

Failing that, dig out around the end of the screw, and use the jaws of the Chuck to remove the screw.

Useful to know, thanks.

Like it!

Does this wiring look suspect? It’s a double dimmer. One dimmer controls some overhead lights. The other dimmer we have no idea what it’s meant to control as never worked. Possibly some wall lights on the kitchen wall. Kitchen wall and overheads also controlled by toggle switches on another wall. In the pic, the upside down dimmer with two live wires is non functioning.
There are two cables with L, N, E and then a third Live.

I have a new posh dimmer I can swap in with like for like wiring but would rather not destroy it if this already looks suspect. Am thinking this gets added to an electricians list later in the year whilst I tidy the wall around.

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Impact Driver and the correct bit. That looks like a PZ2 or PZ3. The bit should sit firmly in the screw, no wiggle. Pick the wrong bit and you’ll wreck the screw head.

Can’t remember where you are but you are welcome to borrow my driver from Deptford way

The hammer driven impact drivers are good for machine screws in metal. Not so good if the screws go into masonry

You can never make the assumption in a lighting circuit that the colours will signify the line and neutral. I can't see where the red cable with the grey sleeve is going to or coming from but the dimmer those 2 are connected to is just functioning as a connector block and could be replaced by a wago.

What you have there is a 2 way setup on the left hand side (from the front of the switch) so that either position (or click on and off) will energise one 'switch line' or another. The current is coming from a connection elsewhere possibly on a 3 plate.

Thanks, @atk just dropped around some Makita 18v magic. Job done in minutes.

I'll be investing in one for future jobs I think as DIY plans here will only escalate I'm sure.

This is the experience almost everyone has using an impact driver for the first time, game changer.

Glad you got it sorted.

Realised we haven't been in the guest bedroom for about a year apart from searching for the cat, so didn't notice some mold forming in corners. It backs onto a wet decking area.

The worse affected corner is an alcove with some batten shelves. I guess the outside also is where the partition fence is drilled into the exterior wall

The other corner has quite hollow sounding loose plaster that on closer inspection someone has tried to cover in the past. I think there's also a fence drilled in there acting as a block to stop you falling into the alley below.

I'm not expecting guests any time soon so I want to turn it into a proper home office rather than the makeshift setup I have at the moment.

What's the best solution here to not have to deal with mold again as I'd want some books in there and don't want them damaged. I'd also have cameras and lenses etc stored in there.

Don't wildly want to replaster but if it comes to that it's possible. Was hoping something like dry the place out, scrub it all clean, patch any cracks and then paint with magic anti mold stuff? But obviously if the issue is caused by holes from the fences then it'll return. If I'm in there I imagine the temp would go up. There's a large window/door that can be opened fully.

remove appx 80 shelf screws

And I thought 606 needed a lot of screws...

Anyone know of a slimline 3 pin plug? I'm trying to avoid having to wire a fixed spur.

On electrical with is the approved quick wire connector for turning a standard light rose wire set up in to a simple switched Live / Neutral / Earth

These things, but which brand to search for? Slightly leery of amazon clones.