I am a frame builder AMA

My n1 on a 32mm tire...

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Guess you gain width pretty quickly if you space it as bit higher from the tyre too.

This was on a 120mm spaced frame so 130 or 135mm will be even wider.

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Still a ways off sitting down over a 45mm sks guard.

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Gotta get me one of these wishbones for some of dat ass action

it is a C57

Would not have thought you’d get that through one of them.

I am not encouraging it. Just say @JesperXT managed to do it. I intended for the frame to be 28 w mudguards and 35 without

Cheers guys, all great information. Looks like it might be achievable with the N1 and a bit of careful spacing. I'm not worried about ISO 4210 clearances, or averse to trimming a guard down to fit.

Next question might be more tricky. I'll probably build the frame for wireless shifting because.
Flat mount disc brakes because. I've been mentally exploring the possibility of internal hydro hoses. The only way I can imagine is through using a 1.5" HT with EC49 cups top and bottom or a 55mm HT and an FSA ACR headset.
These don't seem to be commonly available HT sizes, although I've seen a few frame builders using them recently. Most notably Mosaic from the Enve build summit which didn't look bad at all. Where might one source such a tube?

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That’s also a not commercially available Chris King headset if I’m not mistaken

No but it's similar in principle to the FSA ACR system I think. I would actually prefer to use the Syncros system which uses 51.9 bearings top and bottom and no routing through the steerer bung.

Apart from the FSA isn’t external cup but yeah. If there was something that would work with EC44, I’d be all over it

My plan is to use EC44/52 lower headset cups top and bottom on a Paragon 44mm head tube and then the top part of a Deda Vinci headset. Chap on the Facebook Framebuilders group has done it and got it to work.

Looks like it might be achievable with the N1

I've got an N1 wishbone somewhere. Want me to introduce it to a measuring stick?

Deda Vinci headset

Thats cool i hadnt seen that. It seems like everyone's planning a super integrated thing as ive been thinking about it as well. What fork were you thinking for that? Or just not route the fork cable down it?

Good to hear someone’s done it.
I had previously considered doing the same with a butchered Ritchey version

It's a fork sold by snottyotter's boss Dave. Apparently mine reached the UK a few days ago and I paid the balance of the price yesterday. It will be highly modified before it gets fitted though. I want integrated cables, but I also want mudguards and internal dynamo wiring. If the clearances are sufficient. This bike will be called 'Identity Crisis'.

EC 44 that takes a 51.9mm bearing?

Yep. 44EC headset designed to take a 1.5" inch tapered fork.

Perfect, so as long as there is space to fit the hoses around the steerer inside a 44mm HT and not get shredded to pieces or wear through the carbon steerer, then this should work fine. Just need to find a way to make the transition between oval-ish spacers and a round headtube not look terrible.

I think for most modern forks, an EC49 lower cup might blend better. Does a 49/44 HT exist?

Not that I've been able to find, no.

2) Thought about lowering the BB to 270mm high. I don't like pedal strikes, and have the habits of fixed gear pedaling almost constantly, but as this one will be geared and I read that low BB is preferable for bike stability, I thought it could be good to lower it. But I don't want to have it too low either ; so what are the advised BB height for this use? is 270mm coherent? is it really necessary to lower the BB?

) Thought about lowering the BB to 270mm high. I don't like pedal strikes, and have the habits of fixed gear pedaling almost constantly, but as this one will be geared and I read that low BB is preferable for bike stability, I thought it could be good to lower it. But I don't want to have it too low either ; so what are the advised BB height for this use? is 270mm coherent? is it really necessary to lower the BB?

I've done a bit of reading on the subject. A low BB certainly gives a more planted feel and interestingly it seems that a lot of custom bikes have a bigger BB drop than OTP. Some (most?) of it might be more psychological than pure physics, but for example a modern US geo CX bike feels more stable than an old school euro one.
270mm is a bit high for a rando bike IMHO, with no benefits, but if that's what you prefer go for it. Or, as always, let the builder do its job.

If you knew someone with a lathe, you could buy some 4130 tube and turn a relief into the middle and chase the inside of the ends

270mm is not high.