Home DIY

I'm wondering about setting some threaded inserts into the bench so that the vice can be removed like this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3XfbO5OkB10

I want to install some under cabinet lighting.

The plan is to connect a couple of these to this power adapter

Any ideas how to mount the power adapter neatly under the cabinet?
I was planning on just wiring the power adapter straight into a switched FCU as the means of switching - is this stupid/a bad way of doing it. The FCU will come off the kitchen sockets as it is the least destructive way of getting power to the lights.

Would an in-line switch be better/ok?

I put the adapter on the wall at the back of a lower cupboard and chased the wires behind the wood paneling that covers most of our kitchen.

I've never worked at Wren as a fitter. They, like almost every kitchen company, will sell you a Kitchen on a design/supply basis, if you are having work done then it's much more economical to get your builder to fit the kitchen as part of their scope of works. Also you are much more likely to be left with electrics that have been installed and signed off by a sparx and not a kitchen fitter who "knows a bit about it" (there are good kitchen fitters about who have the training to do it but most don't and can be dangerous).

Any ideas on how to solve this issue?

Tinted glass panels, which get stupidly and dangerously hot when it’s sunny or summer.

At my parents house, and they are concerned that my toddler could burn himself on the glass. Also the room gets roasting hot because of it too.

Anything wrong with insulation of some sort, some thin batons and insulated plasterboard on top?
Should I leave an air gap or is it ok to put insulation right up to the glass?
It does get very hot, so some concerns of any health concerns with heated insulation.

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Yikes that’s a doozie - not sure an air gap is applicable. I guess a foil blanket layer would reflect heat back out. If you get moisture condensing on these in the winter you wouldn’t want to trap that. Realistically changing the whole unit for thermally broken double/triple glazed should be the thing - modern glass shouldn’t get that hot. The dark colour doesn’t help. What about just a perforated timber guard across in the window reveal - bit like a rad cover ? Doesn’t help with solar gain but would stop burning kids.

How about some of this?

Sticks to the outside rather than the inside so not affected by the tint.

You can see from the houses opposite that its a feature of the house design, so I don't know if our covenants allow a change of colour.

I mean I've seen this type of unit with PVC panels where the black glass is, but would look pretty rubbish from the outside if we replaced it with such.

Perforated timber guard might be a stop gap solution, but doesn't stop the room becoming a sauna in summer...

That sounds like a really good idea, not sure how the high reflectivity will look on the panel though. 80% reduction in solar heating sounds excellent though, if also used with something on the inside.

We have internal film on our windows (lower reflection value / lower mirror) and they work wonders. You'd definitely need external though as too much heat would be captured by the dark tint before being reflected by internal film.

With that level of reduction and the thermal barrier of the glass, I think it would completely solve the issue. Might as well give it a go...!

You might be right, who cares about blinding people in the street and in cars with the reflected rays!

I'm not sure they work like that - they diffuse the light a lot more than an actual mirror...

The external mirror films look a lot like the reflective windows they have in skyscrapers.
Maybe if its a bit more reflective than it is now, it won't be so noticeable and will improve things internally a lot.

The external mirror films look a lot like the reflective windows they have in skyscrapers.
Maybe if its a bit more reflective than it is now, it won't be so noticeable and will improve things internally a lot.

Yeah; it’s used mainly in commercial buildings to control the temperature.

I would give it a try. It’s not expensive stuff.

Hey folks. I’m hoping someone might be able to advise on the following: Does the electrical wiring actually match the diagram? (Not sure why the diagram pics rotates when I upload it)

Edit- I’m not sure why I didn’t get it before, but the switch is closed on #2, open on #3, so the wiring seems correct to me now... 🤔

I’m replacing the Hive control for the heating, and that’s what’s under the Hive’s cover.

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Can I put an IP20 light on a bathroom ceiling at 240cm bearing in mind we’re restricted to baths at the moment because of a leaking shower?

Yeah Id say its right, what are you writing it in too.

It’s outside of zone 2. So technically it’s ok. No protection against water doesn’t sound ideal though.

Anyone had a bathroom pendant light break?

The restance / click has gone and it's not turning on. I thought it might have caught, but from looking inside it seems self contained.

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Yes, the inside bit, though self contained, if often serviceable. It's like the mechanism of a clicky pen. I had to take mine apart as the string had come out of the "sealed" unit. I think I even put pictures on here.

https://www.lfgss.com/comments/15464365/

Cheers.

No.1 is starting to wake, so I've missed my window.

It looked like mine had a sealed top, but I think taking it out and having a closer look is the way to go.

It's a fucker tho as it means we've effectively lost our extraction.

No.1 is starting to wake, so I've missed my window.

I know that feeling!

Reading up open the regs I get the impression you can instal any light fitting you want in Zone 3.... is that out dated info? Both the sparks I have had round say anything in a bathroom has to be IP rated.