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Yeah screed is for sure, there's at least an inch of difference in the floor, it's just that the contractor specced a damp resistant one. I suspect if we got the builder to do it he'd just use standard leveling compound, need to look in to options.
There is a bit of a damp problem in some of the walls, possibly because of faulty render, possibly because of the addition of the slab. May well diy inject as well as getting render fixed, seems the only option short of pulling up the slab.
Can't tell what timber this is, looks like pine or birch to me
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Polygon
konastab01
Sheppz
Solid tropical hardwoods or oak is going to be more 'resistant' than laminate but moisture coming up through the subfloor/screed is to be avoided.
Odd for a victorian house to have a concrete subfloor - assume a later addition ? If there is no dpm and its straight onto the earth below then there will potentially be damp coming upwards - but ditto for the external walls really - they typically used slate in between the brick courses to work as a dpc to stop the bricks in the ground sucking water upwards - with decades of movement and wartime bombing vibration - these slates crack allegedly .
But I reckon if it feels, looks and smells dry- its probably fine. You could get a damp meter to check I guess -(I have one but outer NW london based so not sure if that helps).
There is a certain parquet glue that works with blocks that have bitumen residue on them but you do need to scrape them pretty clean to get them flat. You still probs need a screed if the sub floor is uneven.