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Solid tropical hardwoods or oak is going to be more 'resistant' than laminate but moisture coming up through the subfloor/screed is to be avoided.
Odd for a victorian house to have a concrete subfloor - assume a later addition ? If there is no dpm and its straight onto the earth below then there will potentially be damp coming upwards - but ditto for the external walls really - they typically used slate in between the brick courses to work as a dpc to stop the bricks in the ground sucking water upwards - with decades of movement and wartime bombing vibration - these slates crack allegedly .
But I reckon if it feels, looks and smells dry- its probably fine. You could get a damp meter to check I guess -(I have one but outer NW london based so not sure if that helps).
There is a certain parquet glue that works with blocks that have bitumen residue on them but you do need to scrape them pretty clean to get them flat. You still probs need a screed if the sub floor is uneven.
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Sheppz
@Polygon
Looking at flooring options in our lounge renovation, LVT & damp resistant screen coming in at about 3k for lounge and hall. Subfloor is concrete, possibly a bit damp likely due to the unsuitability of the house (Victorian) and very uneven. That said the laminate that's down now isn't showing any signs of damp damage or boring.
Am I mad to consider some parquet that's some up nearby on eBay? I know it would take some legwork getting bitumen off, but wondering about potential future issues with moisture levels in the floor. I guess parquet is not going to be any less resistant to moisture than the current laminate right?