Home DIY

It was open before - I never considered reinstating it to be honest and have mild regret now that you mention it. I did leave it open and it is providing ventilation for the cavity behind all the boards (I deliberately cut all battens 30mm short each end so there is continuity).

New windows will have trickle so should hopefully not have any condensation.

Tricky one, I had no coving to contend with, I did snap the period picture rail so reinstating that will be difficult. It very hard to preserve these kind of features when doing reno work but if it looks nice it's worth the effort imo.

No idea yet.

extremely satisfying to look at.

Fun times! Looks like a great job.

Stripping plaster is fucking horrible work - I hope you wore a good respirator (although that looks like lime, so not nearly as horrible as gypsum).

the damp we had on the walls was due to condensation

Are you concerned about condensation behind the plasterboard?

Nope. They have a vapour barrier, spaced out from the wall with the battens which have dpc behind. All done by the book so in theory should be fine.

Yeah the dust was no joke. I doubled up with a normal mask and a powered respirator over the top.

A day

swoon

It looks great. Probably a stupid question, but you screwed the insulated board onto the battons right? Which then leaves a small air cavity the depth of the roofing battens?

Been curious about this for No.1's room as it gets mold on the top corner - which is incredibly cold being a north wall and the lowest point of the roof.

It could be due to the air brick and that the flow of air goes from back (where the bathroom is) to front (where their bedroom is).

However, I'm not sure I'd be up for knocking back to brick, even though it's a tiny room.

Do you have a link to the insulated board you used?

Yep that is correct. And I left the battens a bit gappy so nothing is fully fully enclosed - just in case. Kingspan/celotex/ecotherm all have guides on the subject. CharlieDIYte on YT also has a video - although he did dot and dab.

Your north wall/lowest point on the roof/air brick scenario is exactly the same as ours. Knocking back to brick wasn't an easy decision but am glad I did it - the room was small enough as it is.

I used these boards https://www.selcobw.com/products/plaster-drylining/plasterboard-accessories/plasterboard/gtec-thermal-pir-tapered-edge-2400-x-1200-x-37-5mm

Many thicknesses to choose from, I elected for 37mm which has 25mm of PIR insulation. It would not meet current U value requirements, but provided you aren't doing more than 50% of the walls in the room, you don't need BC sign off, and I felt the improvement with 25mm would be sufficient.

👍

and I felt the improvement with 25mm would be sufficient

Sounds like it was the right call.

Upgrade to warmth is major, long may our son slumber when he returns.

Son's bedroom too cold and required electric heater in addition to the CH to keep above 16 deg

That is bonkers

Was the CH radiator dinner plate sized?!

I would have checked the sizing on that first too, roasting rad and cold room usually means undersized for room.

1m x 0.6 type 11. Room is 2.9 x 2.7m. I'm no expert in radiator sizing but I don't think it was miss sized. The walls are like fridges at this time of year here.

Hopefully will no longer need to have the CH on overnight after this.

:

I have a mears calc in the van and can work it out for you if you want?!

I'm no expert in radiator sizing but I don't think it was miss sized

It was underpowered as it couldn’t heat the room. Was it single panel? A quick calc puts the required power at around 1000 watts but a single panel type ii at 100*60 will put out 800 and typically you over spec the rads and let TRVs modulate the output.

Not to say insulating is the wrong thing to do - with a bigger red you just piss more energy down the drain.

taping should be easy. Are you mating the tapered ends of the drywall? from the looks of it, you probably enough experience to know this... but drywall has a tapered end designed to be filled in by the tape and mud.

Yes, the majority of the joints are tapered to tapered and no trouble to get decent results, its the internal corners, in particular with the sloped ceiling where I have had a bit of difficulty as it was my first time doing it and I am OCD perfectionist. It's going to turn out great, just taken a couple more coats and sanding than someone more skilful or experienced than myself would have required.

It was a single panel, now it is single panel with convection fins. I should have said in my first post that one of my goals was to have his room stay warm enough to not icicle him without the CH on all night. This room gets disproportionately cold vs the rest of the house so insulating is the only way to go imo.

I don't think you'd need building control involved at all unless it was a new extension being built.

I could be very wrong, of course.

Do you think that type of board would offer any kind of acoustic insulation? I reckon the wall in my office that separates that room and our bedroom might need totally redone so wondering if it would be worthwhile doing it with something that helps keep my work noise out of the bedroom in case I'm working late or mini_com is napping in there during the day.

Failing that, any suggestions for what to to with a lathe and plaster internal wall where probably half of the lime plaster is blown?

You can buy acoustic plasterboard thats for sound deadening, I know its more expensive but a job im on thats what they are fitting on the ceiling of the shop.

You can cut it out and leave the good plaster. But you’ll need to replaster in lime to get a good bond.

Or you can take the entire wall off and use some gypsum to redo it.

I’d do the latter.

By the time I chase the loose stuff, if it gets anywhere close to half the wall, I would go that way too. Bought a bag of lime plaster in case there is an amount I can do myself. The external wall is lime plaster on brick and there's probably only a couple of square ft of that that isn't solid (to my knowledge).