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  • Yep that is correct. And I left the battens a bit gappy so nothing is fully fully enclosed - just in case. Kingspan/celotex/ecotherm all have guides on the subject. CharlieDIYte on YT also has a video - although he did dot and dab.

    Your north wall/lowest point on the roof/air brick scenario is exactly the same as ours. Knocking back to brick wasn't an easy decision but am glad I did it - the room was small enough as it is.

    I used these boards https://www.selcobw.com/products/plaster-drylining/plasterboard-accessories/plasterboard/gtec-thermal-pir-tapered-edge-2400-x-1200-x-37-5mm

    Many thicknesses to choose from, I elected for 37mm which has 25mm of PIR insulation. It would not meet current U value requirements, but provided you aren't doing more than 50% of the walls in the room, you don't need BC sign off, and I felt the improvement with 25mm would be sufficient.

  • Do you think that type of board would offer any kind of acoustic insulation? I reckon the wall in my office that separates that room and our bedroom might need totally redone so wondering if it would be worthwhile doing it with something that helps keep my work noise out of the bedroom in case I'm working late or mini_com is napping in there during the day.

  • You can buy acoustic plasterboard thats for sound deadening, I know its more expensive but a job im on thats what they are fitting on the ceiling of the shop.

  • As @konastab01 says, you'd want acoustic plasterboard. And it's normally used in two layers.

    Even then, I wouldn't overestimate how much noise that will block. To have some reasonably effective noise insulation you need two layers of acoustic plasterboard plus decent insulation but then noise will find its way around any weak spots via flanking, under your non-acoustic door etc.

    Great work @Hovis - very inspirational for me as I'm planning to build a new room within our new place so will need to build some walls.

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