Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

At the caliper end or the STI?

I had a caliper that leaked, took 10min to replace and new one just keeps going.

I know you specifically said you didn’t want them, but this site is selling 785’s for €199

https://www.cnc-bike.de/shimano-scheibenbremsen-c-321_993_997.html?sort=4d

Cheers @andyp - yeah Hylexes out of stock everywhere except bike.discount.de which no longer ship to the UK...

Anyone succeeded with Frankenstein options? E.g. XT8100 calipers with 105 brifters (without the levers going floppy)?

I don't find bleeding SRAM any more problematic than Shimano. Oil is corrosive, but you get nicer threading siringes.

both actually; which caused my LBS serious headaches!

That does sound like a bad experience!

My 4pot deore to GRX shifters are amazing. Mix and match away.

How much a of a faux-pas would it be to bleed some Sram Force brakes with dot 4 instead of 5.1?

Do you want to die?

Nah, it'll be fine, if with slightly worse performance if you get them really really hot.

Cool that's what I reckoned.

Now fingers crossed that a simple bleed sorts the fuckers out!

So, have they made SRAM brakes easier to bleed recently or am I just more patient now that I’m not fixing them straight out the box at a Trek stealership?

Maybe I spoke too soon. Any tips or tricks to get the pistons on these Force brakes moving a bit more energetically? I think there's probably a bit of corrision and muck on the piston though the owner did say he tried to clean them.

How far out can I realistically push them in order to clean them? A few mm or so should leave plenty of it still in the caliper right?

Stick some fully fucked pads in and a worn out rotor in-between then squeeze...

What’s the forum approved bleed kit for Sram Force x1 and AXS Force?

Proper Sram bundle is £70 for two syringes 😂

epic bleed solutions, be careful with dot 5.1

what he said, then remove pads, get a q-tip, dab it in the hydro fluid and wipe around the exposed edges of the piston to clean it of muc n stuff then push pistons back in using normal method

👍🏻

@Howard, @MTB-Idle, thanks, will get stuck into that tomorrow.

The bike in general is pretty bogging and the calipers are certainly no different. I was thinking about possibly splitting the caliper to get in and give it a good clean. Bit far? If they are that bad then new caliper time?

IMO no, remove pads and wash with a stiff brush and soapy water, dry and then do the pistons out/lube pistons back thing.

I don't think splitting will enhance it and unless it's already leaking is more likely to introduce new issues

Anyone know whether the stupid flat-head pad-retaining screws on shimano road calipers can be replaced with AK ones from their MTB range?

Yup.

Safe.

Don't take it apart unless it's leaking, a bit of deadly DOT oil and some pushing in and out will release the dirt on the pistons.

Awesome.

I think the rear needs a bit of attention too and the hoses are all internally routed (inc through the fork leg) meaning you get baws all slack to play with.

Oh joy!

I’ve had great success with ‘flossing’ around the exposed pistons using soft string dipped in hydro fluid then silicone grease.