Electronic & Hydraulic Shifting (Di2, Ui2, customisations)

2-way junction .

https://bike.shimano.com/en-US/product/component/ultegra-r8050-di2/EW-JC200.html

If there's enough slack in the Di2 cable going from Di2 transmitter into the downtube then he might be able to simply remove the transmitter and the wire going from the junction box to the transmitter and plug the wire going into the downtube straight into the junction A box. If not, the EW-JC200 is the easiest solution.

Jesus I'm a terrible "mechanic". Got an Ultegra RX mech to replace the knackered 6870 one, took the 8050 off the gravel bike and moved it to the one missing a mech, little tweak and all running well.

Got the RX mech on, shifts smoothly, but what's that? We're not able to shift into the small cog (yes, even in the big ring). H screw? Micro-adjust? HELP

Was it new?

If it's not bent then...

It's usually limit screws or if you've microadjusted it waaay too much in one direction, just like cable gears you could be off by a cog.

Brand new out of the box from Bike-Discount so I'm sure the mech is okay, just my shitty mechanicing. Is the microadjust specific to the mech or the rest of the system because if it's the latter it may well be just that.

I'm not sure if it 'zeros' the microadjust when you plug in a new mech. I assumed the Junc A just keeps whatever was set but I've never tested this.

The adjustment values are stored in the battery because of course they are.

IIRC it does keep the same values when you change mechs.

If the B screw is too far out shifting on the smaller cogs suffers.

Is there any way to reset the microadjust in the etube app or is it just a case of maxing it out one way then backing it the other way 16 clicks?

I'm tempted to put di2 on my winter bike and trying to do it on the cheap with some 6870 bits.

Need a battery, junction boxes and potentially a front mech. Anyone got any spare bits lying around for sale?

http://di2stats.com/ is an interesting resource I found after buying all my new kit for a 1x install.

Looks like I did okay mind. Majority of what i've used to date is covered and i've only lost my lazy sit and grind gear.

1 Attachment

Any suggestions for cleaning up my loose di2 cable alongside my hose? I forgot to slip on a length of shrink wrap on :( and i'm sure as hell not revisiting internal routing of the handlebars.

It's not as neat as heat shrink but black insulation tape can do a reasonable job if you take your time and wrap it carefully.

I seem to recall silicone self amalgamating tape being recommended for things like this, but I haven't tried it myself.

Has the benefit of not leaving glue residue

At the other end of the "proper" scale, I've just had some of these delivered for the same purpose - haven't tried them yet

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10X-Spiral-Phone-USB-Data-Charging-Cable-Wire-Cord-Wrap-Protector-DIY-Winder-S4/353162161622?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=353162161622&targetid=1140163974449&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=9045880&campaignid=12126078120&mkgroupid=117045670499&rlsatarget=pla-1140163974449&abcId=9300480&merchantid=6995734&gclid=CjwKCAiA9vOABhBfEiwATCi7GO3ZSi353vCGb5xsTkfoNfoMVeO2EAgaZaVEuYhaMs72aWx4KtD2fBoCZGMQAvD_BwE&pageci=aa35aeb6-a20f-489f-b04e-0fc6c29ae1e9

I've got something similar to this on my winter bike but the spiral is a bit flatter. Does the job, looks fine

I really like these: https://www.bikester.co.uk/jagwire-wire-hook-for-electric-circuit-black-626642.html

Is it easiest to go for a Y splitter or a four port junction for a Di2 bar end junction box?

This video suggests the SM-JC41 is the easier way but I can’t figure out where it sits in the bike.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=kFMgEuUwq08

Hmmm - there seems to be an easier way...

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=FmLPJ7T8L5s

I hated the faff of a Y-cable so just went with normal cables.

Hmmm - there seems to be an easier way...

Yeah, this is fine. You might want to include some sort of junction at the stem if you ever plan to travel with a bike box.

(also you can't do it on R785 shifters which only have one port)

Anyone here tried drilling an alloy frame for di2? It's a silly idea right?
I was thinking of this frame

I used the JC41 in my setup, and it's in the downtube, just above the bottom bracket. It has cables going to the battery and rear derailleur, with a spare slot for a front derailleur, and then a long cable which goes from it to the left shifter. The other cable on that shifter goes to the right shifter, which also has a connection to the bar end junction box.

It is, because you won't be able to drill the yoke

How many holes were you thinking? It has enough ugly/useful braze-ons that you could route all the wires externally without much hassle.

If you wanted an internal battery you could cut the wire and feed it through one of the lower bottle cage bosses or whatever.

Was thinking of an entry point at the front end, hopefully room for a junction box in DT with access from the BB (big if) and an internal battery in the seat tube. Then a hole near the bottom if the seat tube to supply the FD and an external run to the RD.

Looking to switch over the Di2 setup from my Fairlight for some more off road fun over the spring/summer. Trying to do it with a cheap frame, once you get the up to date features, internal routing, flat mount, thru axle etc the frames start to get expensive. I'm seeing at as an experiment really.