• Hey, the little stops are just feature to save time, so you don't have to always mark out the domino positions near the edge of the work. I cant remember the exact dim off the top of my head but can check for you.

    To cut vertically, (ie into the face of the work) you position the domino machine up with the reference plate set against the edge of the work. There is a plastic attachment that screws onto the back of it to keep it vertical

    The dims you listed refer to some presets that the domino has built in, but you can manually set it to any dim from 6mm up. I've always wondered why the presets don't correspond with normal sheet thicknesses, it would save so much time. Generally i try to get the mortice exactly in the center of the material, but its hard to set the depth scale perfectly by eye. But usually it doesn't matter too much because you make sure the reference plate of the domino is working to the same side for both things you are trying to join.

    As someone who has had to assemble the CNC domino hybrid designs you're trying to achieve, i wouldn't really recommend it as a system as you spend ages trying to transfer he domino position onto the edges. Far easier IMO to use the CNC to cut a full thickness rebate ? housing joint into the material.

    Hope thats helpful!

  • Sorry, didn't reply to you to say yes that's helpful. I think I've got my head around how the Domino works now, from your post and some reading around and asking silly questions on the festool owners forum. You're right, it's becoming apparent that using both CNC and Domino could be a headache and I may well revert to a Dado or butt joints held in place with 2-block knock down fixings. It should be a more forgiving system and I think I'll be able to hide all the blocks pretty well.

  • The domino is an amazing machine but takes a little while to get you head around all the adjustments. Kudos for trying to figure it out from just the manual! What are you making btw?

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