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• #26102
Where are you based? You're welcome to borrow mine if South.
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• #26103
That's very kind, I might leave it a bit of time until I can afford a decent one that I can have for future projects!
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• #26104
The Evolution ones are good but you will need to adjust the fence as they seemingly never set them up right at the factory. Not surprising perhaps given the price. If you don’t have a workshop just get the smallest you need as the big ones take up a lot of space and are hefty to shift.
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• #26105
In my experience there is always slop in the slide and or hinge of the evolution saws that varies from unit to unit. Meaning that even if you dial the fence in perfectly there is no guarantee of actually cutting at the angle you're expecting to.
Add to that they are set up to try and force you to use their brand blades which have a funny bore - yes you can use reducers on non-evolution blades but it's a faff. While their blades are not bad, they aren't suitable for finish work as they are designed to cut everything ok rather than one thing well.
I've owned a number of them over the years but only buy them as a disposable unit that is good for rough work or metal work. For the same price you can get a metabo 216mm unit that is unbeatable value for money. I bought one 8ish years ago to use as my portable chop saw it takes a huge amount of abuse, still keeps working and most importantly stays accurate.
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• #26106
Shortening a ceiling lamp cable. The third strand - assume its earth - has no connection on the bulb holder. What to do with it?
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• #26107
For the same price you can get a metabo 216mm unit
I used a metabo saw for a load of jobs when I was working as a builder in Amsterdam- was really impressed. And would deffo take one over an Evolution (even if I do have a soft spot for the evolution stuff).
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• #26108
Not sure that's an earth wire. It looks like it's some sort of reinforcement for the main cable.
Earth wires carry current in the event of a fault and must be insulated to account for it.
Is the lamp low voltage?
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• #26109
Can’t say I’ve seen cables like that myself either
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• #26110
It has a very thin insulation on it. Shade is fairly hefty so could see why reinforcements could be needed. At the ceiling box end there is an earth connection however.
Lamp is 25w max, but it’s ceiling so assume 240v.
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• #26111
I've used this one before :-
It's not that difficult. You just drill a hole and cut a notch out with a chisel. Accuracy obviously helps but there's a bit of wiggle room. Just make sure your shelf material is more than 22mm thick.
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• #26112
I haven’t noticed any slop in mine but I had heard the quality was variable. The main thing I hate about the one I bought is its size. A 250 I think, ridiculous.
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• #26113
Same, I thought bigger would be better. The main gripe I have is the angle presets on the pivot have a LOT of play. I know it's asking a lot, but I'd love one that just slotted firmly into 90, 45 etc with out having to bust out the combi square and mallet.
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• #26114
Other than that, the main hinge and slide has no discernible play. Laser is fucking useless tho
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• #26115
I bought a giant Bosch chop saw and I curse the sky every time I have to move it anywhere. Wish I’d gone for something smaller and easier to carry. And the dust extraction leaves a lot to be desired. Grumble grumble etc.
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• #26116
OK. Is the lampshade all plastic?
If so you don't need to earth it, if it's a metal (or partially metal) shade then I'd attach the earth somehow.
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• #26117
The shade isn't conductive but the bulb mount / hanger is metal and could be low enough to be grabbed.
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• #26118
The more we talk about it, the more I want rid of it.
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• #26119
Stairs finally done. Stripped, sanded and repainted. Fairly happy with how they turned out but will look better once the walls are papered.
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• #26120
(the ugly wire is temporary. I'll be removing it once the new doorbell arrives next week)
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• #26121
I find cleaning up hinges strangely satisfying
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• #26122
Painting... I've been watching YouTube and the professionals seem to be able to work on floor to ceiling rolls before loading up more paint. I can manage about an 2xA3 sheets. Does the roller make a difference? Should I just be getting more paint on the roller or should I be watering down the paint a bit? Got a whole house in various stages of renovation so I don't mind getting the right kit if it makes a difference.
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• #26123
Decent paint and a decent roller go a long way. And learning how to properly apply pressure using a pole. A very skilled decorator I worked with had an excellent explanation of how to properly use your hips (which I understand) but I’m a bit too pissed to try and put it into words right now, lol.
I miss painting. Working in galleries, I used to love having massive walls to paint. Satisfying as fuck, especially having a decent method works really efficiently.
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• #26124
I’m gonna throw this out there if you have a lot to do, but since I got into airless spraying it’s really hard to replicate the finish you get with a roller or brush. It can be dangerous if your not careful but it’s fantastic to do once you get the hang of it.
Worst part is masking but the time I save spraying now is next level and the finish too
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• #26125
If the fixture was designed as a Class II then you don't need to worry about it. Is there a symbol on it the looks like this?
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Evolution things are good from Screwfix, according to your timber size/needs -
https://www.screwfix.com/c/tools/mitre-saws/cat830858?brand=evolution&cm_sp=managedredirect-_-powertools-_-evolutionmitresaw
But if it's only for one job, could you borrow one or use a mitre block? Trickier if you need odd angles
https://www.screwfix.com/c/tools/mitre-boxes/cat9790022?cm_sp=managedredirect-_-handtools-_-mitreboxes