Any question answered...

If you have hex bits from 2.5mm to 8mm and maybe Torx T25 and T30, you're nearly there for most common bike assembly needs. Add a BB cup wrench and you should be there for a simple transplant operation. For future maintenance, you'll want a cassette lock ring tool and chain whip, plus a chain tool.

https://www.thatcable.com/3m-pro-3-5mm-stereo-to-6-35mm-mono-jack-plug-cable-1-4-adapter-guitar-amp-lead

Probably too long - do you solder?

Thank you for the suggestion, this would work - but yea, ideally it'd be just a really short cable.
No, I do not solder.

Probably too long - do you solder?

Would it be much worse if they cut the wire, stripped the ends and wrapped them together? Wouldn’t be the cleanest look but would it work?

A bit more searching found this:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/designacable-3-5mm-Stereo-Mini-Jack/dp/B00TS9T596?th=1

Or you could buy a stereo to mono 3.5mm to 1/4" adapter instead of the one you're already using?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hosa-Adaptor-3-5-MM-TRS/dp/B000068O3U

I'm not recommending specific models here - these are just the first examples I've found that appear to tick all the boxes.

Hey, thanks again!
I have also spent quite some time trawling amazon as well as some other sites.
It's amazing, there really are myriads of adapters in this world 😅

I'm not in the UK though, so that orange VAN DAMME cable with the proper Neutrik / REAN plugs isn't available here (would have bought this even though it's too long just for the coolness-factor).
But thanks for that second link - was thinking of going that route as well - and the one you found looks much better compared to the shoddy €1.50 one my searching brought up
👍

I'm growing tired of gxp bb on my do everything bike. Its a second time i need to replace that in 3 years. And I'm not agressive or fast rider. Also bike is always stored indoors. So while I have deore bb52 and adapter coming in mail some time January, I can't help but wonder if I'm better off just sticking square tapper bb in there (a la un55) and some old mtb crankset. Provided I'd use it with 32-38t narrow-wide, any recommendations on cranks? Cheaper is better, but quality is pretty important.

do everything bike...second time i need to replace that in 3 years

If you're doing a fair bit of everything, annual BB replacement isn't that much of a chore or expense. HT2 might last a little longer, or maybe not. I wouldn't go back to square taper.

To be honest i ptobably wouldn't mind doing it on anual or semi anual basis but my last big daytrip was August 2019, just after changing bb. Since than my daughter was born and the bike was mainly doing commutes and shopping trips.. max 20km daily. Now my experience with external bb's is very limited and I might have a bias, but i've never had any ptoblems with squate tapered ones. Never bent one, never got one stuck on me. I think last time i had to change it was after 5 years on daily beater.

never had any ptoblems with squate tapered ones

It's true that UN55 BBs (and the Token ones too, in my experience) are very durable, they easily last until the cranks fall off🙂

I've used Prestine with no issues in the past.

max 20km daily

Erry day?

More or less. With possibility of longer trips fading away due to newborn and than the pandemic (they had some strict rules about movement between counties) you sort of make more effort just to get out even for short while.

Well 7000k ain't too bad then.

Is there a floor pump that is suited for both regular road tyres and mtb tubeless tyres?

Bonrrager Charger aint too bad, I have one at home!

Bontrager Flashcharger does 10bar and has a reservoir for exploding tubeless onto the bead seat. Tubeless thread (read the first post!) will have more suggestions. If I had to live with only one pump, the Bontrager would do everything with a different chuck, but it's nice to have the best pump for each task. I haz Flashcharger for tubeless needs, Rennkompressor with a Hirame Yoko chuck in my race bag and an SKS Aircon 6.0 high volume/low pressure for filling fat tyres.

Any thoughts on which of these would be the switched live? The cable on the left goes to the light/thermostat, and the one on the right is the mains. My guess is the black is switched live. This is the relay if that tells you anything

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Also I've got continuity between these two (fridge is warm), which supports that theory right?

edit: I unplugged the the neutral in the midde and sure enough the compressor fired up and no internal light when I plugged it back in so there's the light neutral, which almost certainly confirms black as switch live.

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Charger all the way.

@Howard You're talking about the regular Charger? It's super hot pricewise but it doesn't say that it will shoot enough volume to fill tubeless MTBs.
The Flash Charger is out of my range I'm afraid

Best broken bolt extraction kit?

Need to remove a couple of sheared off m12 bolts (thanks to the knob heads that nicked the cat off my wife’s car). Left and right of the big hole, lol.

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I haven’t looked since I bought the Bontrager one a few months ago but there wasn’t anything cheaper that had the tubeless charger chamber on for the price and that’s what’s needed to get the air into a mtb tyre. You’ll never get the air in fast enough without it on a pump.
You just pump up to 120psi, drop the lever and it dumps it all into the tyre, coming out to a reasonable pressure in the higher volume tyre.

Looks like wiggle have a similar lifeline one for 55 quid or if you already have a pump and don’t strictly need a 2-in-1, you can just buy a tubeless tank thing which you use in conjunction with a regular pump
https://www.tredz.co.uk/.Beto-CJA001S-Tubeless-Air-Tank-Inflator_118340.htm

Not to sure what you mean by a kit.
Sharp drill bits, plenty of lubricant/plusgas or equivalent and one of these
https://www.cromwell.co.uk/shop/hand-tools/screw-extractors/industrial-quality-screw-extractors/f/1220?query=bolt%20extractor

Sadly I’m talking about this spendy boi

https://www.bike24.com/p2123891.html