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• #1602
Oops... 😬 fixed it not...
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• #1603
Any Domino owners in the house that can tell me about these side stops in the image below? As I understand it (could be wrong) you can use these to set the mortice a fixed distance from the panel corner? Is that distance fixed and if so what is it? I can't seem to see this in the instruction manual (I don't own a Domino cutter)
Also, if cutting horizontally, how is the mortice vertical position set? The manual seems to say:
Use the slide [6-6] to set the desired board
thickness (16 mm, 20 mm, 22 mm, 25 mm, 28
mm, 36 mm, 40 mm).Which would suggest on an 18mm board the mortice would have to be either 8 or 10mm from the face of the board?
Like I said, I don't own a Festool, just trying to design something that will have one mortice cut in to a board with CNC and the other done with the Festool by 'hand' on the edge of an adjacent board.
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• #1604
Here's my current mortice position, so it would be in the centre of the adjoining board edge and 15mm in from the corner.
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• #1605
Hi there, I'm selling an unused roll of self-adhesive mass heavy vinyl for soundproofing. Anyone looking to soundproof their room/wall/ceiling?
It's a roll of Tecsound SY 75 that's self-adhesive.
Size: 5.05m x 1.22m x 3.5mm covering an area of 6.16m2.
dB rating: 24dB Airborne noiseImportant: the roll weighs 46.2Kg – so you need to have a car to pick it up. Pick-up is in Catford, London.
Would like to sell for £70, but just message if you're interested! Cheers, Charlotte
more info on the material here.
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• #1606
Hey, the little stops are just feature to save time, so you don't have to always mark out the domino positions near the edge of the work. I cant remember the exact dim off the top of my head but can check for you.
To cut vertically, (ie into the face of the work) you position the domino machine up with the reference plate set against the edge of the work. There is a plastic attachment that screws onto the back of it to keep it vertical
The dims you listed refer to some presets that the domino has built in, but you can manually set it to any dim from 6mm up. I've always wondered why the presets don't correspond with normal sheet thicknesses, it would save so much time. Generally i try to get the mortice exactly in the center of the material, but its hard to set the depth scale perfectly by eye. But usually it doesn't matter too much because you make sure the reference plate of the domino is working to the same side for both things you are trying to join.
As someone who has had to assemble the CNC domino hybrid designs you're trying to achieve, i wouldn't really recommend it as a system as you spend ages trying to transfer he domino position onto the edges. Far easier IMO to use the CNC to cut a full thickness rebate ? housing joint into the material.
Hope thats helpful!
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• #1607
I've had a domino since release date sometime around 2005 I think. Made lots of furniture with it. I did at one point find the measurements online to set the fence to half the material width rather than having to work from the reference edge all the time which was useful. Can't seem to find it at he moment though.
In the first iteration those tabs were the same as the ones on the wings in the photo and you can set them within a fraction of a mm because they are fixed in concentric grub screw things.
Why not either do both parts with cnc or both parts with the domino?
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• #1608
Because one mortice will be in there panel edge, which I think it's a much more complex feat by CNC, and the one on the face is in the middle of the board at 43 degrees to the edge, so would need a jig. But yeah, I've eliminated some of the Domino butt joints now for, possibly not a bad idea moving away for the rest given the headaches that it could cause. Fwiw that side paddle dimension is nominally 37mm though prone to the same calibration issues apparently. I think if struggle getting the cut in the centre of ply given board thickness can vary by more than a mm.
I was looking at the intelligent fixings peanut 2 also which seems appealing but requires a special router bit.
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• #1609
Sorry, didn't reply to you to say yes that's helpful. I think I've got my head around how the Domino works now, from your post and some reading around and asking silly questions on the festool owners forum. You're right, it's becoming apparent that using both CNC and Domino could be a headache and I may well revert to a Dado or butt joints held in place with 2-block knock down fixings. It should be a more forgiving system and I think I'll be able to hide all the blocks pretty well.
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• #1610
The domino is an amazing machine but takes a little while to get you head around all the adjustments. Kudos for trying to figure it out from just the manual! What are you making btw?
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• #1611
Some sort of kitchen dresser tailored towards storing Kilner jars but to be honest it's become more of an excesize in learning Fusion 360 and thinking about how a CNC based production could be made semi-customisable with parametric design.
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• #1612
Have you looked at rafix? I use them in conjunction with dominos
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• #1613
Yeah, I think you suggested that before (I've been on and off this design for over a years now as it's not my job and other reasons) and its what set me on that domino path. I think I'm going to use modesty blocks for now, combined with dado joints on the loaded sections. Hopefully that's strong enough and it'll make assembly simpler in my case. Once I've got the first prototype set up I can live with it for a bit and figure out if it needs extra strength anywhere.
Speaking of which, does anyone know if the vertical position of the holes on a Hafele single modesty block is 6.5mm?
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• #1614
Got given a really cheap lathe for Christmas. This is an expensive hobby! Have already spent £100 on some basic chisels and £150 on a grinder and jig to sharpen them. Already eyeing up a better lathe as this one can’t use jaws etc. Thankfully I live 30 mins from Axminster, so can pop in there for advice.
Currently just messing round with lumps of wood off the log pile, mainly lumps of oak, shaping up seems ok, but really finding hollowing out to be a pain in the back side! Think my chisels already need a sharpen but waiting on jigs to arrive. Also tempted to get some carbide tipped tools to give them a go for rough shaping up. Picture of rubbish goblet thing that took about an hour, didn’t really bother sanding it that much as it is just a test piece.
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• #1615
Jealous, would love a lathe if I had space.
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• #1616
It’s only a crappy £50 one from Lidl, so the initial outlay has already been surpassed many times over on tools! Already had to build a stand to put my grinder on..
I think I am going to have build a dedicated workshop just to put it in...
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• #1617
Sometime the gems you get from the middle of Lidl section! 🥰
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• #1618
Looking at the drawing I'd say yes they are. I have some from them but years ago and a slightly different design so I can't measure to check.
Rafix work well with dados and all the routing can be done by cnc. 5mm hole for the peg and 20mm for the standard rafix, then you just twist them closed. Once you've waded through the thousands of different types of rafix/minifix etc that is!
As you say, for a test case the modesty blocks will do.
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• #1619
DIY router table and a HUGE round-over bit. Scary but I’ve still got all my fingers.
It’s a foot stool by the way. About the size of a bread bin.
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• #1620
Hawt. What wood is that and how is it not cracked.
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• #1621
Douglas fir, bought air dried several years ago, been sitting under my bench seasoning since then. It’s significantly lighter than when I first got it. Got two bits, on has splits, this one (originally 620x300x160) was split free. Lovely stuff.
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• #1622
wow, looks excellent
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• #1623
Really really nice, I thought it might be Ash. Is it finished in anything? Looks very natural.
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• #1624
fantastic - amazing grain. Much prefer to use my router handheld (feels safer) but appreciate with larger bits this isn't possible.
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• #1625
Gotta love Chinese eBay router bits
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diy leather stuff that's hot for sharing. Sounds interesting :)
I'm trying to get started sewing some leather. First job is shortening woven elastic belts by removing and restitching the leather ends. I'm not sure if this is a sensible place to start.