Any question answered...

Are these "fishing" split-rings, some sort of special split-ring that will be an absolute fucker to use for key rings? Or are they the same thing?

Cheers

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001292150248.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.366961b0P4Jeol&algo_pvid=739459b4-5e2a-41a0-80dd-e4d10302e1f4&algo_expid=739459b4-5e2a-41a0-80dd-e4d10302e1f4-4&btsid=2100bddb16093462967814155e8d77&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

Reading fail from me. Split rings are made of tougher and thicker metal than key rings. It’s not too difficult to thread a 16g wire onto one (about the size of half a pencil lead), but if you’re going to fit an actual key onto the ring you might struggle. Edit- not had aliexpress ones but getting a fishing split ring open enough to take a key but not deform would be a challenge I think.

Edit2- if anyone’s interested, I have bought swivels and locking snaps from aliexpress and they worked really well sea fishing, fwiw, ymmv, etc etc

Can you use th cycle to work scheme with custome frame builders a la feather, Sven, quirk etc?
I'm after a birthday/Christmas present to myself

Nice one. Last I knew (in October), the scheme did allow for purchase of a frame. The scheme doesn’t set a price limit, but the employer might choose to set one. If your employer is registered and cool with it, you should be good. Frame builders are paid retail price (minus % cut if your work uses a 3rd party administrator), so it’s just your work that needs to ok it.

Edit- some retailers can choose to only accept some schemes administrators (eg, cycle2work, bike to work, cyclescheme are all different), so definitely check with the seller too.

I would struggle to get a key on a ring that was only 9mm across (the biggest one in your link).

I really like these, unfortunately sold out at the moment. The flatter material makes it easier to load keys and of course, because brass.
https://districtleathersupply.com/collections/hardware/products/japanese-brass-flat-split-key-ring

Thanks for the reply. No matter what I do with the B screw though, it doesn't help. If I wind it out, I get less tension on the chain and the problem gets worse (won't shift down from any gear). If I wind it in, I get to the point of mashing the jockey wheels into the cassette on upshift before it will shift back down.

Might just support a local business by taking it to a shop and making it their problem, before I pull all my hair out.

.

https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/552ff1f2e4b0b455e82f9e9f/1452020728178-7WRAE8QC4MDRLM1P9P3S/ke17ZwdGBToddI8pDm48kDyUCvx3uVcLEnA5d2rF3VR7gQa3H78H3Y0txjaiv_0fDoOvxcdMmMKkDsyUqMSsMWxHk725yiiHCCLfrh8O1z5QHyNOqBUUEtDDsRWrJLTmgbBA9KfxWpJIziZzus6eiP-mldSDAH8ivdiFyBKM-upmHXHoHxYNnr5VvI8vdzVx/01++In+the+City+Von%2C+despatch+rider+1999+%C2%A9+Edward+Barber.jpg?format=1000w

Photographer: Ed Barber, Project: In the City

Cheers all.

That's really helpful.

They look nice, I think my OH's nice key ring uses those. But I'm after silver coloured ones right now. Also I'm not sure what size I need, and TBH wouldn't mind a range for other projects. Which is why I thought the multi pack would be good.

Cheers that’s brilliant

I'm assuming your chain is the right length, check that first, can be different depending on mech and whether you've got rear suspension, then set the b screw as advised by SRAM for the mech, then cry if it doesn't work.

Photo of your setup RD might help?

I suspect it might be, chain too long, incorrectly installed RD or the frame comes with a direct mount rear mech hanger.

My partner's raw lacquer Brompton needs derusted and new lacquer.

But I can't find it with the paint section on sjs cycles.
Some people say it's not very good anyway.

Any recommendations on what we should apply? Tx :)

Anyone good with Raleigh serial codes? This format doesn't seem to fit any of the formats I can see online. Closest seems to the early 90s which I suspect (which is one letter then 5 numbers), but this seems to be a backwards C and then six numbers...

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I have a customer moving to Surrey, anyone have any recommendations for a friendly and competent bike shop?

Have heard good things about Pilgrim Cycles.

Ex-colleague Martin has a mobile service in Surrey. I was happy having him working on my road bikes.

Exciting NYE content: If I disconnected the thermostat from this fridge will it

a) get really cold
b) not get cold
c) catch on fire*

*Ultimately I want to bypass this thermostat and use something like an Inkbird controller to allow gentle heating as well as cooling, so it won't be running non-stop. Removing the thermostat and light unit would allow me to fit 3x ikea Samla boxes inside which = a lot of bread.

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Not get cold at all. The thermostat is normally just a switch that power for the motor passes through.

If you want to get rid of the whole lot, have a look at the wiring at the back. You ought to be able to find the incoming live and the switched live for the motor fairly easily, possible behind some heat shrink.

Right, thanks for that. I'll have a further explore.

At the moment I have one of these 6.3 to 3.5 adapters

and a male to male 3.5 like this

So I go out of an active bass, into the jack of a tiny, battery powered headphone amplifier.
This allows for decent practicing with headphones without much fuzz.

Since the bass only sends out a mono signal there's sound only on one ear -
what kind of adapter would I need that distributes the basses' signal to both the left and right channel?
Is there even such a thing?
Bonus points if it's a cable that goes directly from 6.3 male to 3.5 male 🙂

As a complete newb when it comes to bike building, is there a recommended toolkit that contains everything I’d need to transfer a group set from one bike to another, BB (Shimano) etc all being equal?

The only tools I own are an old Park torque wrench with bits, and a pedal spanner.

How much are you looking to spend?