Home DIY

Reckon you could do 25m front crawl in there now.

Ah that makes sense. Its just certainly more grainy than when it was newly sanded. Still it looks great though!

Snap! I have one of those too. I only use it occasionally since I changed to the centrotec system but it used to be in use every day for many years.

In the process of buying a house. There is limited space to store my two bikes other than in a shed in the garden. The shed is wooden and not particularly secure, build on concrete paving. I will be adding a secure lock to the door and the garden is mid terrace with no access to garden so I am generally comfortable with security. I will also be adding a movement sensor (part of simplisafe system) so can monitor alongside rest of system.

However I was looking in to how to secure bikes further. Is it possible to put a floor anchor into one of the paving slabs? Probably doesn’t add too much but better than nothing. Anything I need to consider here? Anyone done anything similar?

Thanks

Could put a ground anchor in and concrete it in.

I have a y-anchor under my bike shed - it does involve a bit or cutting, diggng and concreting, but it's not going anywhere fast.

You can get these things too https://securityforbikes.com/shed-shackle.php Not sure how good they are but Pragmasis stuff tends to be decent from what I gather.

Orbital fasteners seem to have a 1,000mm one which is too long ...

I guess your don't have enough space for a 1000mm long bit as well as the 300+mm to accommodate the drill.

Could you drill to depth with a shorter bit, then insert the 1000mm bit into the hole before fitting it into the chuck.

Yes, that may have to be the way I go. 600mm bit is cheap so I guess I'll give that a shot and see if it's long enough (it's into a chimney breast so I can't measure exactly).

Finished off one side of the alcove shelving today and gave the floor another coat.

Nice to finally see the room coming together, next up is decorating then I think I'll have a bit of a break between that and ripping the kitchen out...

I want to polish this hub to a mirror finish, which tool do I need to get into the 90 degree angles at the flange/6bolt area? Dremel?

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Found the source of damp in our kitchen wall..!

Also fuck people who put underslung sinks in wooden worktops, especially when they're combined with 3-hole taps and nothing is sealed properly.

I’m replacing it with a stainless 1.5 sink + drainer unit, so most of the bad wood should get cut out. Just wondering how to seal that back trim to prevent water continuing to fuck up the wall.
Also should I let it fully dry out before putting the sink back in? I’m happy to leave the cupboard open and empty anyway.

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Brutal.

Looks like a 2nd year student kitchen.

Would be curious to hear others ideas on sealing. Part of the problem with that style is you end up with the taps too close to the wall and splashing is inevitable.

I used spongy abrasive pads to denib in between coats to get rid of the grainy feel.

This sort of thing:

https://www.toolstation.com/sponge-abrasive-pads/p60827

Makita BO3710:

https://www.screwfix.com/p/makita-bo3710-electric-sheet-sander-240v/6330j

It's only £49.99 at Screwfix at the moment which sounds like very little for a Makita tool and I could do with a sheet sander for doing some more stairs and a small area of flooring.

Is it too good to be true at that price?

Even without splashing from the nozzle, just turning the taps off gets water all over the wood. Some prick paid ~£800 for the set they installed badly.

Also fuck people who put underslung sinks in wooden worktops

So much.

So very, very much.

Seems like a decent price although since I got an orbital sander ive not went back.

I have a similar Makita quarter sheet. Great bit of kit.

Sorry, but that kind of water damage is just not acceptable, you should've acted earlier. And if you do plan to reuse it

• let it dry firstly, DON'T attempt to sand wet wood
  
• sand properly, especially damaged (black) areas
  
• seal the wood properly, Danish oil 3-5 times with at least 18 hours between coats
  
• lightly sand down with grade 1500 or so before last two coats
  
• use silicon to seal between sink and wood or use silicon tape
  
  

I have a Belfast sink sunk in my 1930s wooden top, currently awaiting the original winged brass taps back from refurb, I used danish oil once or twice a year and other oils in between (cheapo IKEA one for an example) every so often and is still looking good after being installed 20y ageo with another 70 odd years living in a school lab.

Wood is a live thing, treat it as such and it will be fine.....

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That level of upkeep is unacceptable to me but I take your point!

On the other hand it was fucked when moved in and oiling it more frequently (it’s had a few attempts) wouldn’t have stopped water going down the back of the worktop or between the sink and the worktop underside.

I’m going to cut/route out most of the damaged wood out to fit the replacement unit and anything else will be scraped back/sanded before sealing. Ideally with some kind of cheap tanking resin - this kitchen is on its way out tbh.

I used danish oil once or twice a year and other oils in between

I'm with DH on this.

You wouldn't accept re-hanging shelves or re-groutting once or twice a year.

Madness.

Applying oil only takes 30 mins or so though. Quick sand, add the oil, buff after 20 mins waiting. Simple.

30min to:

• find the time
  
• clear the counter of everything
  
• clean
  
• get all the relevant materials together
  
• prep
  
• oil
  
• dry
  
• buff
  
• put everything back
  
  

What is your hourly rate, and when are you free?

I have a long list of jobs for you! Should only take a few hours :)

You missed off herding family members/pets away for the duration.