Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

+- 2mm is probably fine, but check how long the threaded section is. If the replacement is much shorter you may not be able to thread it all the way in, even if the overall length is a close match.

Thanks guys, hadn’t thought of either of those things

ooh thanks – i am still in the market as it happens

I failed you 😭.

you went above and beyond for the fizzy cause

the bigger obstacle is hammering the seized spokes out of the Zipp 440s without damaging the rims. a combination of tub glue, mud, and alu corrosion has them in TOIGHT

Ended up with a set of DT Swiss XR 1501 as they're light, would have cost what I'd have spent building a new set, and have 240 hubs.

Hopefully I can convert them easily to 12x100 front as they're 15x100 at the moment. I don't think I'll get away with an adapter tube as the end caps are probably going to be too wide. I don't suppose anyone has any knocking about? £32 seems excessive!

What are the forum approved cheapest silver road tubeless rims for a classic build? I’ve used Kinlin XR26T/RTS before, but anything cheap around in silver?

Help. Seems like a good place to put this but correct me if there's somewhere more appropriate!

Managed to clang my rear wheel (DT Swiss R32 Spline, with orange decals to match the bike...) on a puddley-pothole at the weekend. Really, properly, clanged it. Hopped the front over but couldn't get the rear up quick enough. See the pic - safe to say it went flat instantly - limped it home by putting a tube in. Note the optimistic bottle of sealant on the floor haha.

Can anyone tell me if this is fixable? I'm really hoping I can get it straightened.... any recommendations on where to take it? Based Tooting but happy to take it around London for a good wheel-fixer...

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Looks pretty fucked, you can try straightening it with a small adjustable wrench and see how it goes, doubt it'll ever be perfect though.

Yeah I think it’s done... maybe time for a new wheelset eh! I have also come to realise they are heavy, so it’s a good excuse.
Looks even worse with the tyre off:

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this is an alu rim right? would'nt re-bending / straightening cause some serious stress on the rim hook?

It is ally, and I think it would. I have straightened it with pliers/adjustable spanner but I don’t have a lot of faith in it. It didn’t crack, but I don’t think it’s straight enough for tubeless any more!

I want to get a set of wheels build for a new project and still need a rear hub.
Classic vibes. 130mm, silver, rim brakes.
I want something reliable but also can't justify spending more than £120. Ideally less.
I am currently looking at HALO RO 6DRIVE HUB, Bitex RAR12 or Novatec F172.
Any reason to go for one over the other? Or should I save up for a Hope RS4 or something similar?

Okay that question just solved itself. I got a bargain on a Hope RS4.

I really want some wheels built before Christmas, maybe a big ask. Willing to travel in london and obviously pay. Anyone? Anyone? Bueller?

I have hubs and rims but no spokes

What do you need building?
Hit me up via PM.

Ooof.

Hi all, spoke length help needed. Building some Novatec D791SB CL and D792SB-CL hubs to DT Swiss R470 DB Rims. I've put all my numbers into the Dt Swiss spoke builder and it's come out with the attached.

I'm going to use Alpina F1 spokes because I can get them cheaper but then probably get the DT Swiss nipples as I know the threaded lengths can vary, and if I'm using a DT Swiss calculator, they probably have it right.

What spoke sizes should I get when I can only get even increments?

I'm thinking x38 284mm and x14 282mm because always round down....

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• Calculation-22122020-151104.pdf

Who says 'always round down?' If I recall correctly that's an oversimplification of what Roger Musson actually says in the book. The rule is

Always use the rule-of-thumb for spoke number rounding - "up or down a maximum of +/- 1mm from the calculated length to the available spoke length.

It would be foolish to round down 285.5 to 284mm because you will end up with a set of spokes that are 1.5mm shorter than ideal which is sufficient to leave the neck of the nipple unsupported (see classic no-go diagram). This is a relatively common way for nipples to fail through fatigue, where the head cracks off the nipple. Far better to have .5mm of spoke protruding from the nipple than to be too short.

Similarly if you but 282s for where you require 283.2, the spokes are 1.2mm too short. To what end?

If you follow the rule of thumb you will buy 28x 284 and 28x 286mm and if all the measurements you are relying on are correct everything will be lovely.

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https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/hub-spares/hope-rs4-2-pawl-sram-xdr-11spd-freehub-assembly-aluminium/

I'm confused, title says both XDR (12 speed) and 11spd. No more info. Hoping I can use this to upgrade my RS4 11speed to run 12 speed cassettes.

XDR is the same spacing as 11 speed road hyperglide stuff. 11 or 12 speed XD MTB stuff will work with a spacer.

So I can fit 12 speed road cassettes to this freehub do you think?

An XD or XDR one, yeah.

Cheers, this AXS stuff is a mystery to me...

12 speed road fits to the xdr frrehub not the xd freehub.