Home DIY

@Airhead @aggi

Thanks for the tips, I’ll look in to both zinsser options.

Our bathroom stupidly has a window along the side of the shower with a horizontal sill which pools water. We squeegee it after showering but it never gets properly dry. Hopefully a decent repaint and bigger silicone sealant beading will prevent it rotting the wood again.

It's this that's the problem. The constant fucking cleaning of stuff.
There's no way it'll get a proper curing time.

It may be more cost effective than fancy sprinklers to box it in, get it signed off for building regs and then get the door/boxing taken out. (Dependant on your attitude to risk/rule-breaking - you'll have to have hard-wired smoke alarms in the new kitchen anyway).

were just about finished a job and the guys budget was 70k, he's well past 115 now. More so because the joiners he got in have took the piss. So defo keep an eye on stuff as folk will rip it if they get half a chance.

People who have the automist tend to be people who want their family to be able to exit the building if there's a fire and hope this system will guarantee it. People who build the wall and knock it down tend to think they are never going to have a fire.

Statistically fortunately both groups are almost correct in their deductions.

Yes indeed.

I learned recently that balsa wood, a soft wood if ever there was one, is in fact a hardwood. Mind blown. It is as if whoever came up with the wood classification system had it in for everyone else.

I ordered some kitchen units and slide out bins. I was sent these bins https://www.hafele.co.uk/en/product/flexible-hanging-frame-for-use-with-moovit-drawer-system-and-one2five-bin-system/0000002a000387cb00030023/ which seem to require a 500mm deep unit. The units I have are 480mm deep internally which means that this sticks out by 20mm.

Am I missing something obvious here? The place I bought them from has closed for Christmas so I can't ask them.

We got the fancy mist system.

We looked at Mistek and another one, can't remember the other name but that needed 3 heads for our room layout and was about 6K while Mistek only needed one head so it came in about 3.5K (North London 2018). Price includes VAT but not redecorating/making good.

We still had to have a wall and door installed between kitchen and living area. The mist system was so we didn't need to enclose the stairs and re-instate the hallway which in a teeny house like ours is a big win.

It's all legit and signed off by buildings control.

Let me know if you have questions, want pics or want the name of the installers we used.

Actually, just noticed you are doing an extension not a loft conversion. I had thought that the protected escape stuff only kicks in for 3 story houses (hence it being an issue for loft conversions). Do you already have a loft conversion and that's triggering the regs in the kitchen work, or is it needed for kitchen extension now as well?

(ta for the Mistek info)

Not sure if it'd be counted as a 3 story. It has 3 floors, but steps from the street up to the front door and step down to a lower ground floor (which is where this kitchen is). So both ground and lower ground have direct access to outside...

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Been watching a lot of this guys' videos, he comes across very thorough and experienced. Not feeling 100% confident I can do my bathroom myself but these are currently my bible.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vNYNigge1C0

I found that too - architects apparently have no concept of what things actually cost, which is odd, as its part of their job.

That is totally correct. We had plans drawn for an extension and the architect drew it as we wanted it. Then the builder mentioned that the doors on the plan were £4000 more expensive that normal doors. We changed the doors!
If I was doing it again, I would have the builder, the architect and ourselves around a table to get the plans agreed.
The architect specified a steel beam which was a nightmare to install, the builder had to comply with the plans for it but said it could have been done is a much easier way for him with no loss of strength. The things you learn ...

The term hardwood and softwood actually refers to the leaves that the tree has hardwood having broad leaves (that are often but not always deciduous).

The actual hardness of the wood is expressed using its Janka rating. This is the force required to embed a~ 11mm steel ball halfway into a sample of the wood. Species are awarded Janka rating based on the average rating for that species.

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Excellent, love the black and natural together.

I have to agree. Black and natural looks great.

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Haaaaa ha ha
Merry Xmas my dear Roasbeefs
<3

Any suggestions on where to buy drill bits beyond Toolstation and Screwfix?

Physical stores? If not, I buy my Wera bits on Amazon

Leyland SDM?

Amazon is as good as anywhere.

Bought these recently - they are quite good.
Bosch 2607019329 Titanium Drill and Screwdriver Set, 70 Pieces https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000P4IQN4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_Zg15FbZ8DTMQP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Jeff's probably made enough this year