Cargo Bikes

Just that. Really easy to get an alfine core out. Take off locknut and cone from non drive side, pull out core from other side.
Taking off the cog and shift arm first is a good idea, taje photos first so you get the orientation right.
Clean our existing oil and dirt with brake cleaner and compressed air, find this the most effective. Once dry dip in either car atf (red cheap stuff) or car gearbox oil, gl2, gl4 etc 75w90.
I usually squirt 10ml more into the shell, put back together with new 1/4" bearing (check cone for pitting), and adjust back up.
Before refitting disc i usually ride the bike then leave it non drive side down on the ground, any excess oil will drop out now instead of all over the disc later.

Pro tips Brickman! Thanks!

dip in either car atf (red cheap stuff) or car gearbox oil, gl2, gl4 etc 75w90

Uuuuugh... careful! These oils don't like mixing and they're not all the same thing. ATF is a specific fluid which I'm pretty sure resists shear (e.g. in a torque converter). I'd be careful putting that in or mixing it with gear oil unless the hub specifies to use that sort of fluid. Regular gear oil I'm sure is fine, but pick the right one. Also bear in mind that hypoid gear oil can damage copper and brass bushings - I don't know what's inside an Alfine.

No brass in an alfine. Atf is the most inert but breaks down easily with any moisture. From the feel and smell im sure that's what shimano sell in a pot for £60 regular atf
Always clean out and blast anything old from in there as your never sure what's been added to it over its lifetime. Seen full on waterproof grease used before with expected results, sticky!

I wouldn't put ATF in anything that wasn't a car autobox, personally. Just because it feels the same doesn't mean it does the same thing. Brake fluid feels just like ATF but you wouldn't want to put that in anything that wasn't a braking system.

I don't want this to turn into a BMW forum -esque discussion about oil, but ATF is not the same as regular oil. I would not risk it unless you know the stuff that Shimano use is the same as ATF. It might be that the demands of a hub from its lubricant are so low that it doesn't actually matter what you put in it, but do you know that? It's an expensive hub.

I think ATF is the de facto substitute for the pucker shimano stuff. It seems to be what loads of people use/recommend online. Obviously they might all be wrong but you know, seems like an established practice.

There's an epic thread about Alfine (& Nexus) maintenance somewhere on the Cycling UK (CTC as was) forums by the user 'Brucey'. He's a walking encyclopedia on IGHs, and AFAIK a retired materials scientist who likes mucking about with bikea. IIRC he reckons the stock lubricant isn't mobile enough; his recommendation was to add 25 ccs gear oil and run it for a couple of months, which should loosen up what's inside, and then switch to using a semi-fluid grease with corrosion inhibitors and EP additives; something like Land Rover swivel grease should work.

Looking to upgrade from the hamax rear seat on my old mtb.

I'm trying to find the sweet spot between single kid carrying ability and bike size. I have limited storage space plus a lot of my kid carry riding is on narrow paths and alleyways.

Kona Ute and Omnium looking like top contenders at the mo.

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Looking into getting a Mini Max to carry some proper weight between businesses. Anyone got any tips on how to secure large boxes in the most efficient way? Straps, bungee cords, etc - what's best?

Straps, bungee cords, etc - what's best?

And thoughts and prayers.

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Inner tubes over bungees. And in most cases over straps too. Can usually pick up a few from your lbs

Bungees are death and should not be anywhere near a bike. Or anyone.
I use innertubes, local couriers use long nylon straps.

I used to use them on my front rack and they worked quite well. Good to know it won't translate to a cargo bike though. Will check out some adjustable nylon straps, nice one.

Any favourite cargo bike articles or websites that I should read?

My personal favorites are the rok straps, these things are awesome.

Thule 25mm wide nylon straps with the sprung metal buckles are spendy, ~£20/pair, but they’re very long and very, very durable. Got my first pair in the early 00s for lugging stuff across London on mopeds and they’re still going strong. Have used them for everything including hoisting engines out of cars. Get them in Halfords A++++ would recommend etc

No material science going on here, but been using it on dozens of hubs for many years, none have failed seemingly from anything to do with the lubricant.
What does actively kill igh hubs is them being left for years /decades with zero clean outs + oil changes, have a nice bucket full of them mostly sturmey aw's (because most popular for half a century).
I think low intensity means you can get away with a lot, average hatch back car gearbox run on only 1 to 2 litres of hypoid oil for 80 to 200k without being changed, but they have better sealing. Higher powered cars or anything doing track /motorsport use yeah, much more intensive. Have seen auto boxes have issues with chemical shock after the wrong oil being used, or even the right oil being used by changed in one go rather than being changed out gradually like you would with a fish tank.
Anyways, maybe its not the exact right oil, but I haven't had any failures on customer hubs in likely a combined 150 to 250k of use.

You looked at the yuba kombi? Doesn't get much love here as it's ugly but I fucking love mine and just fits into my storage, wheelbase is 182. Welcome to try if you are in Londons famous London. Excuse the uncut steerer and non drive side pics but u get the idea.

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Not mine

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I work as an eye doctor, and bungee cords are a common source of serious injury and even loss of the eye.

Use an inelastic ratchet strap, or similar.

As you've said before, and it should be repeated every time bungees are mentioned. I've only ever seen one ruptured orbit, as an F1, but it was grim.

Thanks for the advice everyone. You've probably saved me an eyeball or two.

Rok straps are in the post, and the bungee cords are in the bin. Result.

Looks like I’m too late but Blahol do long straps for €3 plus postage, poss hit up and see if custom ones could be knocked up https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/331860/newest/ or buy a roll of webbing and buckles and sew your own

I’d been using bungees on the cargo bike, albeit ones with larger, blunter hooks but ordered some Room straps the other day. Then I remembered I have a set of the Restrap luggage straps.

They were just the ticket for carrying an estimated 25-30kg of garden bench for @wiresmith today.

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Decathlon (and others) sell 2x 3 or 4m length non rachet bike rack (for car) straps for about £8, have loads of them, great for attaching many things, can be shortened just cut and melt the end. Not as much tension as a rachet but enough for most.

anyone on here have experience of Enviolo Harmony gearing? My first Enviolo hub lasted 6 months before sounding like a bucket of metal parts. The replacement - 6 months on & it randomly changes cadence, especially noticeable going uphill. Mechanic where I bought it thinks it isn't the hub, Enviolo have offered (another) replacement hub. All taking weeks to sort out, so very annoying