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• #25827
Is having two low power items in this arrangement really a risk?
Not a very big one.
Many electrical rules and regulations seem to be written for high power devices that need good earthing. While that is very sensible it isn't what most modern things we plug in are.
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• #25828
Why not make your own from an old 13A plug you've got lying around. Get hold of some 13A flex and one of these and Bob's your uncle https://www.screwfix.com/p/masterplug-13a-2-gang-rewireable-socket-white/97659?tc=NT5&ds_kid=92700055281954475&ds_rl=1249401&gclid=CjwKCAiA_eb-BRB2EiwAGBnXXphJq3rCO-vq-dhwCkjc0qcTQ10e-OXnHfODOE0soYm-R83h9aSYURoCm4sQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
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• #25829
Getting thoroughly sick of my wonky floor and walls whilst trying to fit kitchen units. Finally got the units level and started doing the end panels. After a fair bit of cutting and sanding I got it fitting nice and snugly against the wonky wall only to twig that as the floor wasn't level the front of the panel was obviously out of whack and adjusting that will fuck up the work I've already done on the back.
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• #25830
Is having two low power items in this arrangement really a risk?
Nope.
Things that you should never daisy chain or even plug into a single extension:
- Toaster
- Kettle
- Portable heater
- E/V Car
- Washing machine
- Dishwasher
All those things will draw +2.4Kw during usage.
Basically think: Does this thing have a heating element or is it rated to pull power above 1Kw... if either is true, never put it in any kind of power splitting extension... and if you are just adding a single plug extension for length ensure it's rated for this kind of power.
But you're not doing that... Sonos and a WiFi node draw virtually nothing. Might not even register on a smart meter.
- Toaster
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• #25831
Would definitely add tumble dryer to that list, I have seen lots of those on extensions, especially in older kitchens where why didn't originally have one.
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• #25832
Some tumble dryers draw surprisingly little amounts of electricity, for what they are. Get yourself an A+ rated heat pump dryer and it is only 1kW.
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• #25833
Yes I was thinking more of the old fashioned vented ones, think they are still up around 2kw
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• #25835
Cheers that's really kind and a good idea. I'll try and take you up on that in the NY.
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• #25836
Damn I have a mini radiator with an annoyingly short lead
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• #25837
Plugging it by itself into a (fully unrolled if applicable) extension shouldn't be an issue. It's when you start plugging multiple things in.
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• #25838
Here's a before shot - do some people have no self respect? - and the current state four days after starting 'cleaning'.
The paint was lifting in places on the surfaces adjacent to the windows so I'm taking that off before repainting.
For some reason I've only recently realised how blandly my flat is decorated, which I'm considering doing something about. Nothing too outlandish, I wondered about a warm mid-grey but am open to suggestions. Might do a photoshop but will wait until I can take a daylight photo.
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• #25839
The domino machine cuts a mortice for a tenon. It's a great tool. I had the depth set for a few mm more than the mdf I was cutting into and put my hand on the opposite side of the cut. It sounds like 'who would be that stupid' but I was tired and lost concentration. It actually shaved a little off the tip of the bone but the surgeon was brilliant. He told me he saw my case coming in and rushed down to A&E because he was so excited to get a proper job to do.
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• #25840
I didn't even know it's frowned upon. It's all fused multiple times. You might get some voltage drop but it shouldn't be an issue. On mobile stages I do this all the time with 1Kw power amps.
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• #25841
Just to clarify the above chat. 13A is 3.2kw. Ohms law (A*V=W). So it does take some big consumers at their peak to blow a 13amp fuse.
Some of the cable on the ready made ones doesn't feel thick enough to be 13A though.
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• #25842
I've got ... thinks ...
A 4 way extension block. Into that is plugged:
- an 8 way extension block with a bunch of stuff (including a further 3 way extension block that sometimes had some stuff plugged in)
- a UPS
Plugged into the UPS I have two 4 way extension blocks with a bunch of stuff plugged in.
In total: Desk lamp, fan, server, NAS, two network switches, big monitor, iPhone charger, UPS, laptop, sit/stand desk, another laptop.
At the wall it's all plugged into a passthrough power meter. The highest I tend to see on that is ~250W, most of the time it sits at 200W.
- an 8 way extension block with a bunch of stuff (including a further 3 way extension block that sometimes had some stuff plugged in)
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• #25843
I have a 3 kW electric fire which draws a bit over 13A on nutritious 250 volt London electricity (Dimplex, bought from Argos, so should be legit).
The fuse in the plug gets super hot. When I ran it on an extension lead it melted the socket and also destroyed an internal connection to the point it failed short. That sort of current really tests if stuff has been made properly.
But that's a special case - I don't think 1 kW stuff is a problem. Even stuff like 3kW kettles shouldn't be a problem as they only run for a few minutes at a time I've not encountered a 3 kW toaster.
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• #25844
Ah man, so easily done. I nearly did this to myself once too, but I felt the vibration of the cutter about to pop through thankfully so moved my hand out of the way. Felt proper stupid.
Glad your surgeon got a kick out of it though :)
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• #25845
Anyone had any experience of Zenith or Duropal compact laminate worktops? May be the wrong forum for this question as it's for a closer to £4k kitchen than £40k kitchen.
This stuff:
http://www.duropal.co.uk/samples/compact-collection-2018-2020/https://www.wickes.co.uk/Arctic-Marble-Zenith-Compact-Worktop-3000x610x12-5mm/p/231808
I'm considering a fake marble look even though I don't usually go for materials that pretend to be things they're not.
Also welcome thoughts /shooting down of my other questionable decisions:
No cooker hood (I hardly ever use the existing one anyway)
Marmoleum floor
No wall units above the worktops, just shelving
Strange pretend stone sink
Gold/brass finish tap.
Last two are my wife's choices, against my better judgement
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• #25846
ight do a photoshop but will wait until I can take a daylight photo
There's a rather handy Dulux app that'll do this for you.
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• #25847
Any wet areas I’d do the laminate as you propose, but I’d go with cheapish wood (ikea?) for non critical spots, warms up the kitchen and is easily maintained with mineral oil.
Plus 1 for real Lino and open shelving, spend the money where it counts. -
• #25848
Will take a look, thanks. Consider myself rather handy with photoshop tho'.
This is supposed to be something like F&B Charleston Grey, but it's hard to match considering the photos and swatches on their website are inconsistent. Slightly concerned it may come out darker, so would fork out the fiver for a sample before committing.
How's it look?
I've just about done stripping the insides of the frames where the old paint had lifted in places. Was hoping to not do the rest cos it's such a pain in the tits and that's in decent nick anyway. Figured a light sanding, cleaning and then a coat or two of suitable primer. That make sense?
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• #25849
Also have plans for the hallway. Have run these past the owner of downstairs who approves. Definitely not going Farrow & Ball on a communal hallway tho', haven't looked for a paint to achieve something like this yet.
The door of the downstairs flat is grey already, considering painting the others to match.
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• #25850
What magic app is this?
Colour looks great. Brings that lovely floor to life.
I know daisy chaining extension cables is generally frowned upon but its for length away from socket rather than adding extra devices.
I want to have a sonos speaker and a WiFi node next to each other on a shelf I've just put up. They'll be plugged into a 4 socket extention cable, which will go into another 4 socket cable, which goes into the wall.
Is having two low power items in this arrangement really a risk?