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Yes you hold the button if you don't the version with presets, let me time mine (the EC1) from sitting to standing height for 5'9" me.
About 11 seconds.
(Any faster and it might spill my beer.)
Once you are used to it you'll know exactly what your preferred height is, and if it's not quite right a small adjustment takes a fraction of a second.
Don't forget that your preferred height will probably be slightly different day to day depending on time of day (your spine compresses slightly during the day), or whether you're wearing shoes or not, etc.
Personally I'd rather spend the £100 odd extra (that the snazzier models with height memory would cost) on something else. But that's more about my spending power than anything else. With the moneygun out you'd just be getting top of the range, even if you never used the extra functionality.
It was @Greenbank who high lighted the differences to me earlier. I'm just trying to get best bang for buck.
All the prices on my list I just posted into my earlier comment are without tops so need to add £75 except for the glass one (unless you buy or make your own)
Main things seem to be 2 or 3 stage as gives more height. Some have different weight capabilities but have no intention of having more than 20-30kg on the table ever. Speed they go up and down is something but low down in my list of GAF about. Some of the control units have a few different gimmicks too