Home DIY

There is about half an inch to take off most of the top. It's only softwood so the No.7, properly sharpened shouldn't take too long. I reckon I took nearly as much off with a No.4 when totally ruining it, so shouldn't be too bad. Just annoyed that I have to at all. Might mean it screws up the vice placement, which may require starting from scratch anyway. But it's a lot of timber to scrap if so.

Sounds like you give it your best shot first, and if it doesn't work take it from there.

Third attempt tested ok. The first two only failed cos I'd not noticed the green and blue pairs were swapped around. Win and fail in perfect symmetry.

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So I've just had the floorboards up with the electrician and to my surprise the lead main pipe has a lot of moisture / appears to be leaking.

Is there some sort of test you can do on these? Alternatively is this a job most plumbers would carry out?

Certain it's not just condensation?
Mains water is coming pretty cool at the moment.

ToolStation etc do pre-split cylindrical insulation.

Right, I've done the easy bit here and am now on the making it actually smooth bit.

Anyone any tips on the best way to get the filler smooth and level? What tools should I be looking at using? Cheers

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A no 7 isn't ideal for stock removal. The weight of them combined with the friction on a sole that long (even a one that is well waxed or oiled) makes it incredibly tiring to use them for more than a couple of passes. If you want to remove that much material then a scrub plane or a router sled are much better options.

Good point, hadn't thought about the friction. Thanks!

Can you get a spirit level on those?
The one, 2nd left, is probably outside the adjustability of the face plate.

And I'd just wrap the pipe in that? I'm hoping it's just the condensation.

You can't tell from the picture but fortunately they're not attached to the wall in that picture.

Something like this is a good place to start :-

https://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/viewprod/r/RODPFB/

I have so many different types of filler knives. It's useful to have something wider than the channel you're filling. You can knock up the filler in an old tub, make sure you follow the instructions and measure the amount of filler to water, then mix it until it's not lumpy. You can use warm water to make it dry quicker. Once it's dried for a few hours you can use a sponge to clean up any excess or texture the surface a bit.

The unika mousse I asked about earlier. Have just squirted some of it on the worktop, used on of the sponge brushes the Rustin's kit gives you, wiped it around, is drying now. Looks much better. Really easy to use.

Might be an idea to measure the outside diameter of your Lead pipe to get the lengths of insulation of the correct size.
Position split on the underside and use cable ties to secure.

I'm relieved.

Realise this has gone a bit off topic after the cable/floorboard business, but ethernet mission very much accomplished.

First attempt to crimp the connector failed, but second seems to have taken perfectly well. Just done a test with iPerf and got 930Mb/s. After the doubts expressed I'm feeling quite smug right now :)

Wall socket no doubt a better long term solution, but this will do for the time being and at least I know the cable's working fine.

That seems about par. My homemade ones have been slightly more likely to fail with intermittent problems over time.

Woah 930 mb/s?!

think I solved this.

https://www.hottubdiy.co.uk/waterway-5-light-lens.html

Theres a smaller version as well

Between two computers on the local network, not internet.

Cheers- ordered the same part from another shop.

On an unrelated note- TV wall hanging:
3 of my fixings (upper) will be into Brickwork- easy enough with masonry rawlplugs, but the lower 3 are into plasterboard (lazily covered fireplace by previous owner)
My thoughts are- GripIt plasterboard fixings x 3.

Should work right?

From my very basic understanding of the mechanics, all 6 will be operating under some kind of shear condition, to a degree. The top three will also have more of a tension load as the mount will probably want to pivot around the lower end as the TV will be slightly cantilevered out. So the top three will be the most important and it seems beneficial that they are into brick.

tldr; so long as it's not a MASSIVE telly, I would have thought it would be fine. I would go at least red plugs for the top three. Maybe even brown for peace of mind.

Yeah- that was my very basic assumption too.

It isn't a very big TV at all, tbh.

If you really never want it to move, you could resin fix in some bolts to the brick, we did this, and there is no chance it is ever moving...