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• #39227
Pro AF. I’ll do that next time.
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• #39228
How do people go about lining up building insurance and contents insurance for the day that everything goes through, without being stuck with it if everything falls through?
Also, do we need to get detailed information about the locks on doors and windows to make sure the cover is valid? Or could we update it once we are in - vendor is getting less helpful over email.
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• #39229
Only need buildings insurance- and then contents on the basis you're gonna change the locks.
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• #39230
What does the hinged lid do apart from get in the way when your saucepan is a little bit too big?
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• #39231
How do people go about lining up building insurance and contents insurance for the day that everything goes through, without being stuck with it if everything falls through?
Insurance has a 14 day cooling off period where you can cancel for any reason.
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• #39232
You need buildings insurance from exchange, not completion. If the building burns down between you still have to buy it.
I did the usual insurance quote game a few weeks before exchange and then bought the policy as soon as exchange was confirmed. Not covered for an hour or so.
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• #39233
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• #39234
Measure the width of the current ones, then visit your local big box builders merchants - Wickes, Jewsons, Travis Perkins, or independent timber/builders yards of course, or reclamation yards, and pick up what you need. In reclamation yards they are usually sold per foot/metre, e.g. 150mm (which are often actually 144mm wide when planed down) is £1.50 per metre or whatever.
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• #39235
Christmas present sorted.
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• #39236
Thank you. Are they all generally the same depth then?
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• #39237
All make sense, thanks.
Hoping to get into the new place before Christmas - FTB so going into the unknown to some extent. Trying not to hope too much given the small number of working days between now and then.
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• #39238
Likely to be 3/4 of an inch, or 20mm, but I'd double check your current ones. A tip I learnt the other day for getting a board up if they are nailed down (obviously screws are easier to undo) - to avoid snapping a board by levering while the nails are in, use a hammer and punch to tap the nails all the way down through the board, lift up the now loose board with a pry bar/flat screwdriver etc, and then pull the nails out of the joists with a claw hammer. To replace, either use a bigger-headed nail or move nail position slightly, depending on how visible it'll be/how much you're bothered.
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• #39239
Trying to convince my wife that its a kitchen necessity.
Roast porg for Xmas lunch. -
• #39240
I think it’s to hide it from show - you can have them with or without afaik and I wouldn’t bother personally
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• #39241
Gaggenau Vario series.
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• #39242
No-one picked up on this but I enjoyed it
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• #39243
Re lids on induction hobs, maybe it’s to protect them from drop damage?
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• #39244
Yes that’s probably a good shout - i think I’d still go without it but can see why it would be useful
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• #39245
Tempting...
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• #39246
didn't know that existed - would be part of my dream kitchen for sure
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• #39247
I think you can do a similar thing with Neff, Bosch, Siemens and Miele so it doesn't need to be a gaggenau
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• #39248
Exchanged, phew. That was a stressful few days. Anyone got any boxes?
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• #39249
Congrats!
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• #39250
We will have a load of packing shiz in Ealing this weekend.
What is this? Looks dreamy.