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  • I think that with small pieces like these hollow walls aren't really the point. This is more a case of being able to make complex geometry to exact dimensions. If you look at the mounts @ectoplasmosis had welded on they work because everything is in the same plane. But with my boost spacing frame and post mount brakes you'd need some pretty funky bends.

    I think the three uncertainties in having those brake bosses printed are.

    1. Will they survive? And if not how fucked is the frame?
    2. Did I accurately draw the tubes in CAD? I'm going off some pretty dodgy drawings, and I'm not even sure that the drawings match the tubes that come out of the factory.
    3. Will Phil be able to accurately recreate my CAD drawings? I think the world of him, but this would require sub millimeter precision. And even if it's perfectly tacked, the tubes warp during brazing and what not. Although I would of course add a bit of thickness for some leeway, but more leeway would also mean more filing.

  • Will Phil be able to accurately recreate my CAD drawings? I think the world of him, but this would require sub millimeter precision. And even if it's perfectly tacked, the tubes warp during brazing and what not.

    This is why printed dropouts typically include the brake bosses too so that the alignment of both bosses and the axle is all done in the printer rather than on the welding jig

    The reynolds dropout is eyewateringly expensive ($395 from Ticycles) but with a bit of thought you could create a self-jigging, self aligning disc mount that would eliminate this risk and allow for a standard dropout

    Time for a dodgy sketch methinks


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  • Yes! I looked at doing a full dropout, but it gets both pricier and trickier. With the brake adapter I'd just print it solid and hope for the best, but with a full dropout you'd need to get into those lattice structures and making sure it's strong yet light. And then paying for somebody else's expertise gets even more expensive, as the Reynolds dropout shows.

    The mounts on the previous page would in theory be self jigging as I had cut the tube facing faces 'to size', that combined with a disc brake alignment tool should be safe. This has become far more interesting now I've discovered a conventional mount wouldn't work with my current choice of seatstay and chainstay. The blue faces would need to touch a tube.

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