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Looks like the boards have been screwed down underneath - so as long as they’re all nice and tight and not squeaking then lay whatever as the subfloor. I’d probably go for some 5mm ply screwed spanning the width of the hall
Tenderloin-
Thanks. Was expecting to be told plywood was overkill and hardboard would be fine, so good to hear otherwise. The boards are only screwed down where they'd been butchered and lifted for access, there's a couple of squeaks but they'll be taken care of easily enough.
Meant to mention that the new floorboard was bog-standard planed timber from Wickes. It's a first floor flat with a noticeable draught under the floor and no signs of moisture. Is that likely ok without any treatment?
@tbc I'll put down parquet-print lino and post pics. No one will be able to tell the difference.
Brun
Replaced a broken floorboard this afternoon and discovered hardboard in a pretty terrible state. Must've been like that for years because it had nails around the edges of each broken bit.
Investigating other unevenness that's been bothering me for a while, I discovered the hardboard had been cut along its length all the way down the hall. Presumably when the previous owners had the kitchen done.
I'm gonna replace the whole lot, but am wondering if there's any advantage to using ply over hardboard again? It's not terribly uneven other than the mess by the kitchen, but I can pack the worst bits of that. Am assuming that having one piece wall-to-wall should make it pretty solid again.
Was also considering screws rather than nails, for the sake of removing it easier if the need arises. However I'm wondering whether thickness (or rather thinness) would be an issue with countersinking. The current stuff is about 3mm but there's only one door opening over it, so trimming that to accommodate thicker boards wouldn't be an issue.