Home DIY

A lot of it is common sense you will already be applying.

Methinks you think too highly of me.

That said, I'm full blown paranoid of any and all cables and visually check everything before I pack and again before I rig.

I think my main concern is actually turning up at a venue and the PAT has expired or I didn't get one done for a device I need and then I can't do my job if the venue says 'nope'.

Again, I've never experienced anyone asking for a cert, so a sticker would probably do the job. But fully committing and paying for training and equipment seems more like the stupid and unnecessary shit I'd do.

Thanks, I'm trying to work out if I can fit a nest myself. I have this over at the boiler....

https://photos.app.goo.gl/YKK7WgEYFaQqkABD7

Do you (or anyone) know if it is as simple as wiring the heat link in the same way then just sticking the nest on a stand?

One of the stacks in my tenement building has a couple of boxed in elbows without access panels and rodding points.

I found out when it backed up, overflowed through someone's bath, came back down through the ceiling into the close. The ceiling came down with it. Fun times.

I've never done it but that's my understanding yes.

Your current connection panel looks like the usual British Gas/Landis&Gyr/Horstmann etc. Live and Neutral are labelled. 3 is HW on and 4 is CH on. So current 3 goes to Nest heat link 6 and 4 goes to 3. Connect the two wires at the thermostat together with a wago block or similar.

You need to get power to the Nest somehow. That can be from the Heat Link or I assume a back of plug PSU?

Edit: You probably need to take a link from live to the two common connections on the Heat Link (2 & 5).

Hmmm.. might swerve this design then.

Thanks. I can power it from a wall socket for now and have it on a stand.

I had something similar. I just wired a netatmo smart thermostat in to replace the existing thermostat as that can be set up with just the two wires (relay plugs in wherever you want).

You should be able to wire the heat link at the boiler and have the nest wireless somewhere. I didn't do that as I didn't want to have a random unused thermostat or blanking plate on my wall where the previous thermostat had been.

Definitely worth getting advice from someone experienced in the design (not me) if you want to proceed.

In my case the design was historic and there was no obvious way to improve it. We had to have the stack cleaned by jetting, which was fine in and of itself although I'd not want to be doing that inside my own flat! (They jetted it from an access point by the main door to the stair).

Do you think I could use the wires that go to the current thermo to power the nest by linking them to the T1 and T2 on the heat link.

Why not outside?

Also where is sauna?!

Because then you'd see them on the outside! Plus it would run over the glass roof of the extension and mess with the cladding out the back.

Mrs.116 didn't like the idea of splitting the bathroom in two, but I think I've had enough or her lip so going to bin the one large bathroom plan and reinstating the sauna.

Yes but one of those might go direct to the boiler and you might not want to wire to that depending on how confident you are. You will need a new connection from what is currently terminal 4 to your boiler demand terminal too. Likely to be fairly easy if the programmer and boiler are next to each other, not so much if they are in different parts of the house.

As long as it's done properly it shouldn't cause major issues. As I understand it there's just the two of you using it so one would assume only a normal amount of bog roll and bodily ejectiles, which shouldn't cause blockages.
Wet wipes, sanitary pads, tampons, condoms, cloths, toys, mobile phones - these things cause issues when mixed with soil pipes

"Wet wipes, sanitary pads, tampons, condoms, cloths, toys, mobile phones - these things cause issues when mixed with soil pipes" well thats my weekend plans spoiled.

sorry hun

There might be ready made threshold bars that cater for a difference in height. 10mm is quite a bit though. Are they different materials?

I'm usually all about the stupid and unnecessary shit but PAT testing is very often carried out on site and the blessed sticker applied if required. No one has ever checked the PAT stickers and I've met some health and safety people who take their jobs seriously.

Do you check that the sockets you plug into are RCD protected, do you know where the CU is in a venue in case you need to reset it in a hurry. Would you keep using a faulty extension socket or a damaged 240v cable. These are all more pertinent than the majority of the PAT test in your circumstances.

What it is good at is picking up on the office kettle with a damaged cable standing in a pool of water that connects to the sink.

I have a question for the DIY-Gods: hours of googling have not produced any result but I basically want an aluminium angle trim to protect the edge my kitchen worktop from further water damage. I have found like thishttps://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Multi-Purpose-Angle---Aluminium-11-5-x-19-5mm-x-1m/p/188101?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=&scid=scplp188101&sc_intid=188101&gclid=CjwKCAiA7939BRBMEiwA-hX5J4V1fm6BaP9BAFU6Lgyvf8SNjZtBc9RJm8FI36t8Jp51qnPWgbK4bBoCAcIQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds but I would need one without any noticeable ‘step’, meaning the edge of the angle should be a gradient and become flush with the worktop (Sorry for the terrible description!)

My dad insists this type angle exists but for the love of god I can’t find it anywhere...

What's your worktop made of? If wood you'd just route out the 1mm equired depth, right?

Has anyone got any experience buying ufh pipe - any recommendations? Pex vs pert etc etc

Can the bog just move to the other side? Then just a simple run to where it needs to go

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Google "aluminium angle chamfered edge"

Wow, that did the trick! Thanks so much

Look for a threshold bar that drops already

It’s been half answered already but you want to be searching ‘rebated threshold’ or something similar. The one in this link would do you but you’ll probably need to plane 3 or 4mm off the height from the bottom.

https://www.flooringsupplies.co.uk/product/17982/solid_oak_edge_profile_900mm_satin_lacquer?adtype=pla&keyword=&gclid=CjwKCAiA7939BRBMEiwA-hX5J9WmiU57F0BK0SOOu8fEytBYqXzrkRlXojqDOR-L0qHqciiW58oF7xoCdSsQAvD_BwE