Any question answered...

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  • 30Nm has always worked for me, never had a square taper arm come loose.

    I find that giving self-extracting hex-driven crank bolts much more welly than that runs the risk of deforming the hex head itself.

    I’ve also found a very thin film of grease on the tapers helps fully seat them without excessive force, despite this being often frowned upon for some reason.

  • Can anyone find the small plastic clip for sale on its own? Pictures on the left of the image. Or think of a solution to a missing one. It's £17 with postage so it seems a rather cost intensive solution to just buy the kit.
    https://www.bikeinn.com/bike/mavic-mavic-ergo-dial-20cm/135876343/p?utm_source=google_products&utm_medium=merchant&id_producte=2139579&country=uk&gclid=Cj0KCQiA-rj9BRCAARIsANB_4AAXHZZuLLZoJ5zJv6cFGvZ4_P3pBRcSgM_8EyAhue8IhOzvNCl1uYYaAhNcEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

  • a very thin film of grease on the tapers helps fully seat them without excessive force, despite this being often frowned upon for some reason.

    This has been discussed in the grease thread, some very old people wrongly heeded Campag's 1970s instructions to assemble the tapers dry.

  • I'll try the thin grease film then, thanks too!

  • Did not seem to have an answer on another thread so trying my luck here

    You wouldn't have had to ask in either thread if you'd only looked at the Shimano document which Hjusth kindly supplied. I might have done the same, but I'd have been much more snarky 🙂

  • when I searched I did not come across the Shimano documentation, but I wasn't looking for it either as the manufacturer of my crankset isn't Shimano. But as I've seen you mention quite a lot there is a ton of available doc by Shimano so should have thouht about it!

  • the manufacturer of my crankset isn't Shimano

    The laws of physics apply equally to all manufacturers 🙂

  • Are cranksets seizing from corrosion a chemistry or physics problem? 🤔

  • Best paint for laser speed sensors on steel shaft?

  • Greasing the taper isn't for corrosion protection, its to get the crank boss far enough up the taper with the available bolt preload to cause the flank pressure under no torque load to be sufficient to prevent its dropping to zero on the unloaded side under service torque load. That's a physics problem.
    That common lubricants might also mitigate the chemistry problem of dissimilar metals being left in contact in the open environment for years is a side benefit.

  • Yes I understand that entirely. My question wasn’t focused on that, but rather, literally, if a crankset seized from corrosion is a physics problem or a chemistry problem. Not sure why I was wondering as now that I’m typing it out it seems pretty clearly a chemistry problem as the elements in question undergo chemical changes. Guess I thought corrosion was a physical change when I asked, for some reason? I dunno.

  • if a crankset seized from corrosion is a physics problem or a chemistry problem

    All chemistry problems are really physics problems, and all physics problems are really maths problems 🙂

  • What the fuck is wrong with all those people at Boiler Room live sets?

  • The trick is to not watch it

  • And then philosophy comes along and ruins everything.

  • Regarding tyres for bike trailers:

    Getting punctures is really a massive pita, especially if the trailer is fully loaded.. hard to fix and can be dangerous depending on where it happens. Often ruins the rim too.

    I was looking at a few solutions to minimise the chances:

    Tannus under armour- basically a liner sits in between the tyre and the tube, also protects the sidewall a bit

    Getting 16” moped / scooter tyres. I’ve read they will fit on 20” (etrto 406) rims. Anyone had any success with this? They would roll slower and be heavier but I’m hoping there would just be so much rubber there they would be pretty impervious to road debris, I imagine they would have decent sidewall protection too.

    Filling the tubes with OKO tyre sealant (can double down and do this as well as the options above too).

    Would appreciate any input- particularly on whether I can get moped tyres to fit on the bmx rims!

  • What are you using at the moment? Schwalbe have a new cargo-specific tyre which comes in a couple of widths of 406

  • I’ve spoken to schwalbe UK, the 20” in that tyre isn’t available through them yet! I’m in desperate need of this in 26” size too :)

    I’ll be sure to get some when they are.

    We’re usually using schwalbe Big Ben / apple plus tyres. Seem to come on most cargo bikes as stock.

    Have also tried out various BMX tyres, fare pretty well.

    Was also looking at the Schwalbe Moto-X, only come in 2.4” which won’t fit with the forks that are being used (but does fit on the back)

  • Not helpful due to the size, but I'm giving these a go.
    https://www.magliner.com/10-inch-x-2-inch-interlocked-microcellular-foam-wheel-111070
    I'm building a trailer that will have a wide base with a low cg.
    Hand truck wheels also come in slightly bigger sizes, or even wheelbarrow ones might be an option.

  • I need to replicate some like the image below. It's a wardrobe rail that hooks onto some shelving I already have. The pole part is quite straight forward, but does anybody have any ideas how I might go about sourcing the brackets? It looks like they are quite simple and just clamp on with a plug and a piece of metal with the hook part. Anybody have any suggestions? The pole part just needs to be 56cm wide.

  • Anybody have any suggestions?

    Bar plugs? The RSP ones are pretty stout and come in a couple of different range-taking sizes. The hooks you can just bend and drill from some thin bar stock.


    1 Attachment

    • 71OoVew9SvL._AC_SL1500_.jpg
  • Is there a fitting that effectively does the job of a nut and bolt but can be released by hand i.e., something that can hold 2 thin flat pieces tight together by passing through a hole in both of them. I've seen fixings that use a pivoting, sliding section that can be aligned lengthways to pass through a hole in 2 plates and then turned 90 degrees to hold them together, but I have no idea what they're called.

    Incidentally I don't want to use a wingnut as I want it to be one piece.

  • I have no idea what they're called

    Dzus might be what you're thinking of, e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/302700696271

  • Nice! Actually the one I was thinking of is called an antiluce faster apparently, but they don't seem to come small enough for my needs.

    Anything else in that line?

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Any question answered...

Posted by Avatar for carson @carson

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