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30Nm has always worked for me, never had a square taper arm come loose.
I find that giving self-extracting hex-driven crank bolts much more welly than that runs the risk of deforming the hex head itself.
I’ve also found a very thin film of grease on the tapers helps fully seat them without excessive force, despite this being often frowned upon for some reason.
ectoplasmosis-
a very thin film of grease on the tapers helps fully seat them without excessive force, despite this being often frowned upon for some reason.
This has been discussed in the grease thread, some very old people wrongly heeded Campag's 1970s instructions to assemble the tapers dry.
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I'll try the thin grease film then, thanks too!
gbj_tester
paulbiche
Thanks, that is interesting.
I contacted the crankset manufacturer directly that handed me a document where it states "left arm (shim) 12 to 15Nm", I suspected it was for hollow BB and not square for the mention of left arm only and much lower torque compared to what I came across from Parktool or other sources (which seem similar to what you posted, around 35 Nm), but when I raised the interrogation on is it really 12 to 15 Nm, manufacturer did not answer back.
35 Nm seem to be a value that is recommended on several places so I guess this will have to do...!
thank you for the help