Current Projects chat and miscellany

Can you take a snap of this? Would be great for reference.

This is a pic before I put the calipers on, tried some hope ones I had that were hitting the hub, during lockdown I managed to get some trp mechanical calipers that worked but as I say scary close. I’ll take some better pics of how it’s setup now in the morning. Got a mate who had the same problem with the exotic fork

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Bravo!

I don't have a cross bike. But if I see a bike like this, I (think I) need a cross bike :)

Bike looks rad af!

Would love to see the fork/hub/caliper interface issue when you have a chance.

best place to get a carbon fork stripped and repainted without breaking the bank? I guess London preferably, but it could always go in the post.

I'm also curious for advice on this, I recently bought a Serotta F1 to restore my Atlanta, sadly the green has go as it doesn't go particularly well with the red/yellow fade paintjob.

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Looks cool! Think yours is the later model with round tubes and slightly different dropouts?

My On-One forks seem to be fine with my cx wheels (Formula hubs), but I’ve just noticed that with my 650b Fulcrum 7s driveside spokes somehow rub against the inside of the fork (not the actual carbon tube, but the chunky metal dropout).

Not entirely sure what I can do about it, maybe a little washer on the DS axle might space it out enough, or file the metal bit of the dropout slightly?

Sell it to @JB.

I had a similar issue with a genuine Pace RC31 fork which the Exotic/On One are a ‘copy’ of.

The rotor bolts were rubbing on the inside of one of the big ass dropouts, so I used low-profile conical head bolts and filed a tiny bit off the dropout then painted over it with Humbrol enamel. Works fine.

How much do you reckon yours fouls the spokes?

If its the old On One forks with the black carbon legs and silver chunky alu drop outs and crown I had the same issue. Solved with a washer on the NDS Axle

It was probably 1-2mm max, only on the elbows of the spokes at the hub flange. I've found a random washer in my garage to put on the NDS axle, which appears to have fixed it. Obviously the washer is smooth rather than knurled like the outer locknut is, so it remains to be seen whether I get any issues with it slipping. @velosaurus - is this what your solution looked like too? Any issues?

I think I used a thin washer, just enough to the legs cleared the bolt heads. Used it like that for ages.

IIRC that fork has quite a deep recess to capture the hub oln. I once did the descent on the rough track from Ooty Hill station in Tamil Nadu down to the Indian Ocean. Its one of the prettiest rides you can do and the descent is about 2o miles long. I didnt notice until about 2/3 way down that the pesky kids at the top had undone the QR on my front wheel.

I didnt notice until about 2/3 way down that the pesky kids at the top had undone the QR on my front wheel.

They hadn't, QRs unscrew themselves when subjected to the wheel ejection force caused by disc brakes.

Yeah we all remember that very sad Fox forks Brecon Beacons incident and moved our QRs to the NDS because of that and watched it like a hawk. In this case no. This had been undone. I was just hungover and didnt check / notice. In that part of rural India, back then, the kids were all over your bike when you stopped. Never took anything, but pulled and twist every lever possible, to see what happens.

The point is that fork has quite a recess so got away with it which re-assures a skinny shim washer will be fine.

Hmm... I’d be inclined to look for knurled/serrated washers...

The inside has quite a (cnc) captive cut out for the oln to sit in, unlike the pace or exotics, so as long as washer thin, not issue imo

Thanks, @Flandria
In Flanders, life without a cross bike is unimaginable. 😊

Don't push me :)

pedal spanner. got my nitto compacts on to a dynamic with minimal scratching

Here’s the clearance from the fork to rotor bolts. Sorry for the shite pic. I remember Hope or Amp Research had discs with a counter sunk bolt. I think I’m gonna put on a set of suspension forks and just be done with it.

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changed the cassette. got all spacers including the spacer to the rear (to allow 10sp cassette on 11sp freehub). I’m getting some minor lateral play. any ideas why?

I've had this due to the rear spacer being deformed. It stretched and slipped over the freehub splines when the lockring was tightened.

hmm, will take a look at it again but looked fine I think and is fresh out the box. I'd tightened the lockring up pretty tight as well, so not that either

this is an ultegra 6700 cassette on fulcrum racing 7s

I'd tightened the lockring up pretty tight as well, so not that either

You haven't cross threaded it by any chance?

@Tijs don't think so - I was taking it on and off (a few times) to try diagnose the problem. it was screwing in and out quite freely

I've put it back on but it is still wobbling. think I'm only going to get 90-95% on this build - will have to take it to a bike shop for a health check before I start bombing down big hills... I might tighten it up BASTARD tight to see if that fixes it... working on the basis that I won't be the poor bastard who has to undo it next time...

nearly done now - cranks on tonight. cassette changed. chain on. just cabling left.

I think I sussed it from googling around - shimano 10sp cassette on an 11sp freehub needs 1.85mm + 1mm spacer. I only had a 1mm spacer on there (which was how the shimano cassette I'd taken off was setup by my shop), threw in another 1mm spacer I had lying around and it tighted up significantly, with only minimal play left. so just need to order a 1.85mm spacer to replace the temporary 1mm I'd put in

here's hoping I didn't fsck up the chain sizing. used the equation method