Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

yeah I have ordered a new DA caliper. was originally gonna get through cyclescheme at my LBS but 10 week lead time through Madison! got one off wiggle

will get an olive and barb. good shout

Some advice needed: replacing my 105 rotors for new, as one became slightly bent.

Is it advised I replace my (fairly new) pads at the same time, or is that overkill?

I have paired an XT caliper with a GRX lever and can't get it to be as good as the front grx caliper. It seems that maybe, the brake pads with the cooling fins / heat sink on the grx might be of tighter tolerance. Could this make the XT caliper squeeze that little extra further?

Any ideas how to solve this? Is it an incompatibility issue?

New Dura ace calipers come pre bled. When you’re ready to install it carefully twist the black plastic cap out of the calliper to expose the hose port. If you do it carefully you might get away without needing a bleed, though once it’s installed you might want to tap the caliper and hose gently, so any small bubbles go up into your lever reservoir rather than get stuck in the calliper.

If you ever want a like-new rear caliper, let me know I’ve got one sitting around...

the brake pads with the cooling fins / heat sink on the grx might be of tighter tolerance.

I haven’t read of this being the case, guess it’s possible though.

If you look at the back part of your lever paddles, is there a small bolt up near the top, near the curve of your drops? I can’t remember if grx has one, but if there is then that bolt controls the lever travel: you could adjust it so the brake bite matches your front.

If they’ve got life in then and aren’t contaminated, no need to replace.

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Not too sure about that...

Ye, I played around with the reach adjustment If thats what you mean? It only comes closer to the bars though :-/

Thanks!

Edit: after some research I see thatShimano calls it Free Stroke Adjustment. I will have a go at this. Thanks!

Edit2: not possible with grx600 levers.

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super - did not know that. thank you very much

@PhilDAS did you get this all sorted? I’m pretty sure I have every tool imaginable for disc brakes at this point, and am slowly building up my skills, to the point where I might actually be useful.
Lmk- I’m round the corner from you, from memory. Also we need to talk re workshops.

Edit: after some research I see thatShimano calls it Free Stroke Adjustment. I will have a go at this. Thanks!

Edit2: not possible with grx600 levers.

Hmm, that’s annoying. Only other trick I can think of is take the wheel off, pull the lever slightly (to bring the pads closer together by a fraction of a mm), reinstall the wheel and see if it’s better (or if it was too much and the pads are now rubbing, and you now need to re-centre the calliper or push the pads apart...).

I didn't get it sorted yet but I will still need to so I may give you a shout, if you have the tools for fitting the hope calipers to shimano levers and adding fluid.

Also we need to talk re workshops.

That would be great

Shimano free stroke adjustment is basically pointless anyway. Are you 100% sure everything is bled properly? Sometimes a bubble caught behind a piston will be stubborn to move. Try bleeding with the pistons most of the way out, flushing fluid up and down the system a few times (you'll need a syringe at the caliper end rather than a bag as per Shimano instructions) be careful not to pop the pistons out, a bodged thinner bleed block may be useful. Then spread pistons, can push fluid through again for luck, then with the bleed cup on the lever pump it about 50 times whilst tapping the hose to really get everything out, make every 10th pump (ish) a big, long, hard squeeze. Can try the last part first and if it works ignore the first part.

The calipers where fiddled with yesterday and pistons pushed here and there :-) its better then it was but still close. Not having the free travel adjustment is pretty shit when its obviously possible.. i guess ill have to get the 800 levers if the 600s ever break/wear out.

If they're anything like the older MTB levers then you can replace the blanking screw on the ones without like SLX to give you free stroke adjustment, but it's still basically pointless. I'm not sure if the newer MTB or road levers are still like that though.

Apparently the free stroke adjustment would just have let me increase lever pull rather than decrease. According to reddit its the effect tiny tiny bubbles still in the system.

According to reddit its the effect tiny tiny bubbles still in the system.

Not just according to Reddit. Try pumping the lever a lot with the bleed cup on, usually brings bubbles to the to top, can also strap the lever down hard for a while, tapping the hose a bit whilst doing both helps, if no good then try bleeding again with the pistons out a bit then repeat lever pump stuff.

Not just according to Reddit

did lol

Thanks!

Where are you based? Happy to have a look on Thursday if you are in London. I'm based in SE1 and work in SW9.

Bleed method of the gods this. Has even worked on ancient and corroded avid elixirs.

Yup, patience and perseverance

It's all in the hips.

Thanks for the offer. I’m on a different island I’m afraid.