Any question answered...

If you use an indoor trainer, you could slap on a load of carbon around the BB and use it as a dedicated turbo trainer frame. That's what I did with an old carbon frame which had quite major damage to one of the chainstays. Reinforced the damaged area with UD carbon tape, and relegated it to Zwift/Sufferfest duties.

Why does it need to be wider? A 3/32" tensioner should work fine with a 1/8" chain.

The nut inside the pad holder is also spherical, and together they form a ball joint that allows the pad to be pivoted relative to the brake arm. If you use a plain bolt the pad will only ever be parallel to it.

A 3/32" tensioner should work fine with a 1/8" chain

Not if the groove the chain runs in is narrower than the pin length of the chain. There are some ⅛" chains which are only 8mm across (e.g. KMC e101/X101) which are likely to fit, but most of them are over 9mm

If you use a plain bolt the pad will only ever be parallel to it

Not so, and the types illustrated all have the bolt head flat against the am when fitted. The pivoting elements are inside the arm. V-brakes usually have spherical washers both sides of the arm and the bolt angles with the pad, but that's not what's in the pictures.

Yeah I guess, but it'd be nice to get the thing I have running smoothly ( in my mind, the DMR design will retain the chain better).

As tester pointed out, the chain rubs on it quite a bit as it's too wide (the chain that is).

Plant pot. Did this last weekend.

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Ah, the chain goes inside the red roller thingy? In that case, I take it back. I do have a lathe, so if you need it modifying to make the channel in the inside wider, let me know.

Brilliant! Thank you

This doesn’t look right, does it?

I’ve switched a Cannondale SI forged crank arm for an SI Hollowgram arm. I assumed it’d be a straight swap. Do I need an additional spacer on the non drive side spindle/spline?

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This doesn’t look right, does it?

Doesn't look terrible in terms of overall length, the wave washer is touching both sides. If there's too much end float, it wouldn't hurt to put an extra shim in there.

Thanks for your reply. Makes me feel more confident trying it.

I can’t create any wobble but seems odd to be able to see the spindle. If the wave washer compresses, won’t the spindle start fretting?

@snoops that plant pot / mudguard is great.

This doesn’t look right, does it?

Looks OK. From the manual:

check to see if wave washer is properly preloaded (still has slight wave and not loose). If it is loose, remove the crankarm and add another shim. Up to 3 shims can be used. Add shims as needed.

@IrPOWERranger
@grams

Thanks for suggestions, tried both but no success :(

Can you not just replace the rubber wheel with a jockey wheel from an old mech, then you can keep it on the bike? Not advocating buying something new!

Some time ago I did something that causes my Mac to alter what I type by adding a semicolon to words that have an apostrophe e.g.

Doesn't;

I've only typed Doesn't its added the semi colon. I can't work out what to search for for tips on how to change this back. I once saw some instructions but didn't get on with fixing it and now it's annoying me hourly.

A coarse file and a few minutes?

The material is soft and not much needs removing. If you do 'make a mess', no-one will notice.

I can’t create any wobble but seems odd to be able to see the spindle. If the wave washer compresses, won’t the spindle start fretting?

If you can't move the axle sideways, you probably have enough compression on the wave washer. It's there to apply preload to the bearings, you want enough but not too much. If you squash it completely flat, your bearings will wear faster.

I intentionally bought the guide wheel type rather than jockey wheel based on some unfounded opinion that they retain the chain better, so I’m keen to endure with this one.

You’re probably right, but in my mind there has to be an elegant way of doing this.

In reality I definitely should just file it a bit wider.

Thanks. Also concerned as it looks vulnerable. Isn’t the gap inviting water ingress?

Attach it to a drill and do a bodged lathe thing.

Suitably sized bolt through the guide wheel clamped in drill chuck = ghetto lathe.