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• #127777
I was going to suggest it may be for changing out to a wider post for a dropper but 33 is weird.
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• #127778
Finished the Colnago Dream CX
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• #127779
Nice bike!
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• #127780
I think this is fairly common. I guess it makes sense to use bigger diameter tubes in some cases (for stiffness etc) but use a sleeve to keep to normal seatpost sizes.
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• #127781
LOOK KG 243 ,Sadly had to get the seat stay replaced after a crash and lost a chunk of the beautiful paint job so got the frame powder coated
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• #127782
Thank you!
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• #127783
starting to look like a bike. pls excuse the slack chain
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• #127784
Nice but it deserves a seatpost with some setback.
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• #127785
I think I've got one lying around in my parts bin somewhere. maybe I'll use the ergon CF3 I have laying about
question: how far into the drop outs should the rear wheel go? it feels like it is only just /barely/ seated in the dropouts. feels like they're too narrow/tight vertically and when I try to pull them back further into the dropouts they just won't budge. might need to run a file across their surface a few times?
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• #127786
how far into the drop outs should the rear wheel go
The axle should hit the adjuster screws
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• #127787
The wheel can go only as far as the screws allow it to. It's definitely safe from the moment the QR-nut doesn't come outside the dropouts. (don't know if that's clear?)
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• #127788
thanks both
can't get it far enough into the dropouts to hit the adjuster screws. have got it further in since I last updated (with the QR nut safely inside the dropouts) - think they're just tight. I'll try lightly filing it and take it from there
I don't hate it with the CF3 actually
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• #127789
Maybe try to cold set the dropouts. I had this same problem with one of my frames. No need to file it, just (gently!!!) cold set it with a chisel or something.
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• #127790
@cozey ...looking good! What a frame.
What bars did you go with in the end? -
• #127791
success - used a stanley knife to scrape away some excess paint in the drop outs on both sides and the rear wheel seated fully
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• #127792
went for a set of nitto M109AAs. happy with the shape, though I guess the proof will be in the pudding !
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• #127793
.
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• #127794
Gonna put this on the new page, apologies for the repetition...
I'm looking for a new seatpost, what are the options for:
Carbon, stealthy black (I'm happy to use acetone)
About 10-15mm setback
27.2
Compatible with a carbon-railed saddle (Antares).
Less than 100 quid.Any ideas?
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• #127795
Finally accumulated most of the parts so I can start putting together this Rock Lobster Ti frame. Can't quite keep up with @ectoplasmosis levels of ano madness, but going for a similar neo-retro Ti build.
Plan is for rigid carbon forks, 1x11 drivetrain, 650b wheels with "gravel" tyres and flat bars. Still trying to work out the optimum bar/stem dimensions. I've also got a pair of 26" Hope/Stans wheels with proper MTB tyres which should get me through the mud a bit better.
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• #127796
Nice! These are great frames, love the webbed dropouts. Will you be sanding off the clear coat and taking it back to raw Ti? New decals are easy to source.
There are plenty of 440mm AtoC Pace RC31 carbon forks around, check Retrobike forums.
Make a dedicated project thread!
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• #127797
Been thinking about what to do with the clear coat, as it's quite tatty in places and raw brushed ti looks much better, but I don't know how thick it is, or how much effort it is to remove.
I've picked up a pair of On-one forks, which look to be a knock-off of the RC31 design. I know the RC31s had a rider weight limit, but I shouldn't be hitting anything too gnarly on this bike. Saw this on Cotic Soda recently which, along with your excellent build, is the inspiration. Although mines on a bit more of a budget!
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• #127798
A few sheets of fine wet & dry and red Scotchbrite strips will take care of it.
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• #127799
best place to get a carbon fork stripped and repainted without breaking the bank? I guess London preferably, but it could always go in the post.
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• #127800
I’ve got the same frame so close to finishing my build but I ended up buying a cheapo exotic carbon fork with 1mm clearance between the caliper and hub, gotta find a cheap pace rigid pace I think
Ribble 725 hardtail. With the shim it's 30.9 like stated in the specs, without its 33.0mm which is weird.
I contacted their customer service and they asked for a photo of the shim wtf.
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